Stack Rock Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,776 ft |
GPS: |
35.8829, -92.9113 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 75,110 total · 520/month |
Shared By: | Allen Corneau on May 7, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
Description
Once a hidden "secret" crag only known to a few, Stack Rock offers a multitude of high-quality routes in a very secluded and remote setting. The crag has some unique features and walls not typically seen elsewhere in Arkansas. One interesting feature is that the crag wraps all the around, creating a type of crown. This 360 crag offers shade or sun all day, and also has some steeper features that stay dry in light rain. The trail and the crag itself unfortunately become extremely overgrown during the summer months. Briars, ticks, chiggers, snakes... everything you'd expect in the midwest jungle. So be weary of visiting between May and September.
Other cool features include the pillar, hosting the classic 5.10 sport climb "Sanctified," which allows you to top out. Top can also be accessed via an easier route on the backside "Searching for Mushrooms" at 5.8. This is an easy solo if you are inclined, but I would recommend bringing a rope and rapping off.
The heart chamber is another popular spot, hosting one of the best 5.12s in the state, The Show Me State. There are several trad testpieces and easy sport at the crag as well. It's a great all around crag offering many options for climbing. Beware, this crag is a bit backcountry. Loose rock is not uncommon.
There is also bouldering around, mostly on the south side. The majority of the established problems are moderate, V0-V6. However, there lies the exceptional V10, Trackman, first climbed from the stand by Fred Nicole, and first done from the sit by Daniel Woods.
Getting There
Getting to Stack Rock can be very difficult, with miles of back roads and plenty of chances to get lost. It can be approached from the east, west, or south in varying degrees of time depending on where you are travelling from. I recommend using the pin below to locate the turn into the parking area and letting your gps guide you.
https://goo.gl/maps/8S2Ax9ap1MN2 [35.873351, -92.914525] to get to the final turn down to the parking/camping area. The parking is about 0.1 miles up that road.
Note: there is an OHT trailhead area with camping also called Stack Rock down the road to the south. This serves for decent overflow camping, but be aware the parking for the approach to stack is down the road at the "Stack Rock Special Interest Area."
Approach Beta
The approach isn't too long, though longer than most AR approaches. It may take 20 minutes depending on the time of year, but expect to have to hike a ways along the crag to get to the climb you want. In the summer months, the approach can be very heinous, so beware.
From the parking area, take the obvious trail past the gate. Follow this trail for a while and eventually it will open up and there will be a service road leading to the right. Take this road for the majority of the established bouldering (though not the trackman boulder).
From here, the trail continues uphill past some boulders, to the crag. This is the Wall of Moderates. Now you must choose whether to go left or right, depending on the routes you want to do. Slightly to the right is the bivy cave.
Some people opt to hike in and camp at the crag. There are some fire rings around where the trail meets the service road. There is also the option of bivying in the bivy cave!
Classic Climbing Routes at Stack Rock
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