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North Bank Upper
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Stack Factor S 

Stack Factor 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Durland and Steph Johnson, 1992
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Jamie Estep on Mar 4, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Picture of [Stack Factor], 5.12-, North Bank route...

Description 

I am unsure on the grade and name, definitely at least a 5.12.

It follows the lip of a huge roof for about 100 feet. Stick clip the first and probably second bolt. It is steeply overhung and nearly sideways from start to finish. It has sustained hard climbing, but there are some good rests. There are often good holds, but the angle is very awkward. Your left arm will be dead after this one. It's like a 90 foot heel hooking bouldering nightmare....

The rock looks suspect in a few places, but I've never seen anything actually loose or break.

Because of the angle, there are some potentially extremely dangerous falls if you swing into the wall with a lot of rope out. Have a good belayer. It is not runout but could end badly. I would wear a helmet on this one even if you can cruise it.


Protection 

I'm not sure on the count, but there are probably 9 or 10 bolts.



Comments on Stack Factor Add Comment
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By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Mar 4, 2011

I wasn't sure on the actual grade or name of this climb. I worked on it for a few months in the summer of 2000. I've never even seen another person on it other than myself. I haven't been on it for 11 years now, so my memory is a little fuzzy if there even was a notable crux. Sustained and bouldery all the way up. It also wasn't climbed much at all then, so there was quite a bit of dirt on some of the key holds.

I would conservatively grade it at 12b/12c. It may be harder or it may just be so pumpy and awkward that it's actually a lower grade. The awkward falls don't help psychologically either.

If anyone knows the name and/or grade, please feel free to correct it.

I would also love to know who did the first ascent. I know Pete Peacock and a few others had been working on some hard routes on the second buttress around this time, so I assumed one of them put this up but have no idea.

By steph johnson
Mar 28, 2011

Stack Factor saw its first ascent back in 1992, with Dan Durland and Steph Johnson equipping and sending the line; however, Matt Laggis should be given credit for the vision of seeing the line. Also, .12a is the consensus seeing that Bob Bernholzts cruised the line and RVA trumped that by setting the draws, and then downclimbed the route removing the draws in fine form. If you need more direction about current routes in the Gunnison area, consider using the Gunnison Rock guidebook for direction, or, consult Brad Tomlin for more accurate info. Cheers, Steph Johnson.