Stab in the Dark 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Howard, Gottlieb, Rotert (1978) |
| Submitted By: | ChanVan on Feb 19, 2009 |
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Ben enjoying the jams
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Description A Moore's Wall classic and a good route for those breaking into the harder grades. Quite a bit of character- a boulder problem start, overhanging jams and face climbing (crux, well-protected), and an amazing if somewhat runout 5.8 arete to the anchor.
Location The route is in the Amphitheater directly across from Quaker State. It is the obvious crack leading up to a blunt arete. Start around the corner to the right of the crack.
Protection Nuts, cams up to a number 2 camalot- bring runners for the initial traverse to reduce drag after you get around the corner. Bomber anchors at the top- fixed nuts with cables and rings.
He's so high!
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The Amphitheater
On a slightly wet day,
Robert H...
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Placing pro before turning the corner.
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Crux move (one way to do it)
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| Comments on Stab in the Dark |
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By alexanderblum
From: Flat Place, NC
Sep 26, 2010
| bring a number three camalot |
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| I highly recommend against carrying a #3 Camalot as it adds unnecessary weight on a steep climb, and blocks the crux hand-jam. There is a great #2 Friend sized placement just below this and an opportunity for stoppers higher, if you want trade pump for overhead gear before you pull the crux. A climber with 5.10 crack skills will be much happier leaving the hand-jam free. |
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