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The Amphitheater
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Stab in the Dark 
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Stab in the Dark 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Howard, Gottlieb, Rotert (1978)
Page Views: 1,265
Submitted By: ChanVan on Feb 19, 2009
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The Amphitheater

On a slightly wet day,
Robert H...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A Moore's Wall classic and a good route for those breaking into the harder grades. Quite a bit of character- a boulder problem start, overhanging jams and face climbing (crux, well-protected), and an amazing if somewhat runout 5.8 arete to the anchor.


Location 

The route is in the Amphitheater directly across from Quaker State. It is the obvious crack leading up to a blunt arete. Start around the corner to the right of the crack.


Protection 

Nuts, cams up to a number 2 camalot- bring runners for the initial traverse to reduce drag after you get around the corner. Bomber anchors at the top- fixed nuts with cables and rings.



Photos of Stab in the Dark Slideshow Add Photo
Placing pro before turning the corner.
Placing pro before turning the corner.
He's so high!
He's so high!
Ben enjoying the jams
Ben enjoying the jams
Crux move (one way to do it)
Crux move (one way to do it)
Comments on Stab in the Dark Add Comment
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By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 26, 2010

bring a number three camalot

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I highly recommend against carrying a #3 Camalot as it adds unnecessary weight on a steep climb, and blocks the crux hand-jam. There is a great #2 Friend sized placement just below this and an opportunity for stoppers higher, if you want trade pump for overhead gear before you pull the crux. A climber with 5.10 crack skills will be much happier leaving the hand-jam free.