This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.
Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.
381 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in St. Vrain Canyons
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain Canyons:
Handcrack-a-rete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Upside The Cranium 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Temptation Arete 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 130' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
Featured Route For St. Vrain Canyons
Pocket Hercules 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
This is the crack 25 feet left of "Redneck Hero". Steep and pumpy this route has good pro and fun movement. The route "Big, Big Monkey Man" splits off about mid way up. Best to do this route when the river is low. i.e. spring, fall. At the top traverse right to a bolted anchor at the top of "Big, Big Monkey Man."...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For St. Vrain Canyons
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Colorado & Rocky Mountain Region Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic