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 ADVANCED
Mr. Meanor Wall
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Latrine , The T 
Mr. Meanor T 
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Off Scott Free T 
Safe Cracker T 
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St. Valentines Day Massacre T,S 

St. Valentines Day Massacre 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Schroeder, Linda Lynch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,272
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Feb 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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tricky start easy after that

Description 

This is currently the rightmost route on the same wall as Mr Meanor. Start right of a large flat boulder and a few feet right of the first bolt. Move up to clip the first bolt, then follow an obvious white streak/ridge. Go straight up after clipping the fourth bolt. Clip the fifth and last bolt and scramble up slightly right 15-20 feet to the chains.


Protection 

5 bolts and chain anchor. Small cams or stoppers can be used between bolts or above fifth bolt if desired.



Photos of St. Valentines Day Massacre Slideshow Add Photo
can sub gear for bolts
can sub gear for bolts
St Valentines Day Massacre Topo
St Valentines Day Massacre Topo
if the first 15 feet of this route went on for 100, it would be four stars...wishful thinking.
if the first 15 feet of this route went on for 100...
theres a rodent of some type that eats at the yucca right around the belay for this route, listen and you can hear it chewing.
theres a rodent of some type that eats at the yucc...
super fun climb
super fun climb
Comments on St. Valentines Day Massacre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 1, 2012
By Vincent Greene
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The first 35 feet of this is better than any of the other moderates in this area. Lots of nice moves. I only wish it would go on longer.

By Vincent Greene
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

If you are in the mood for a harder start, you can traverse left up the white streak rather than starting right of the first bolt - that bumps the rating about half a grade.

By Vincent Greene
Jan 31, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The first two bolts have been removed by Ben Burnham by request. The moves can be covered by small stoppers or very small cams.

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FWIW, I'm the one who mentioned to Ben that I thought some of the bolts on this route were unnecessary.

Thanks, Ben, for being willing to go back and take another look at the route!

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Why is Ben being consulted regarding the necessity of bolts on a route that he didn't put up? Doesn't sound kosher to me...

By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I was at this wall in June, 2006 and all the bolts were there. Good climb.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

fun climb, enjoy the dirt when it slabs out at the top.

By kurt schroeder
Nov 30, 2008

Ben, Lynda and I put this up in stages, but together. Ben really liked this route and I agree with Vince: if only it would go on.............. Originally it did start right, never liked that. The direct start Ben finally bought into. kas

By Micah C
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As of today, the entire climb is bolted pretty well. It may be hard to spot all the bolts from the ground, but it felt fine to me with no gear.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5 bolts no gear supplement needed. If you're ticking the formation why not? Besides the left leaning crack makes for an interesting feature to follow.

Nice.

By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 11, 2009

I led this climb today, and it had all the bolts. Very fun climb, especially in the novice level.

By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Oct 14, 2009

if this route was taller and didnt taper out to a scramble it would be majestic , fun starting moves and holds here

By Aaron Marks
Jan 18, 2010

which route is one to the left of St. Valentine's day massacre?

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

No extra gear needed. Easier than it looks and FUN!!!

By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Loved this climb! Great to follow the white streak. The route is easier than it looks from the ground as the bottom bolts have thin but very nicely textured holds. Cannot see the fifth bolt until you are close to it. The climbing above the last bolt is run-out but easy climbing gets one to the chains B4 you know it!

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Jan 1, 2012

Added Mussy hooks to anchors