St. Pauli Girl  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Crotch Robbins on Mar 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl

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Description 

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.

Location 

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.

Protection 

Singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.

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BETA PHOTO: St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack i...