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SS Cable instead of Chain for anchor
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By mattm
From TX
Oct 9, 2012
Grande Grotto

Does anyone have any experience using STAINLESS Cable to extend an anchor over the edge rather than using chain? The specific nature of where this TR anchor might be doesn't let me put the anchor bolts close to the edge.

- Cable will probably be 5/16th 304SS rated to 40kN (or 32kN if you allow for 80% strength when using rope clips to terminate with a Loop/Thimble) 1/4in is tempting but de-rated, it's 22.75kN so not sure that would "be enough". Thoughts on 5/16 vs 1/4?

- Chain, even galvanized, is at least 50% more costly by my estimation and I'd like to keep it SS for longevity.

Rough sketch of what's being considered. The alternate rigging way would just be two separate legs with thimbles on each end. In the end, it may not be worth it.


cable sketch, excuse the kindergarden drawing skills
cable sketch, excuse the kindergarden drawing skills


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Oct 9, 2012

mattm wrote:
Does anyone have any experience using STAINLESS Cable to extend an anchor over the edge rather than using chain? The specific nature of where this TR anchor might be doesn't let me put the anchor bolts close to the edge. - Cable will probably be 5/16th 304SS rated to 40kN (or 32kN if you allow for 80% strength when using rope clips to terminate with a Loop/Thimble) 1/4in is tempting but de-rated, it's 22.75kN so not sure that would "be enough". Thoughts on 5/16 vs 1/4? - Chain, even galvanized, is at least 50% more costly by my estimation and I'd like to keep it SS for longevity. Rough sketch of what's being considered. The alternate rigging way would just be two separate legs with thimbles on each end. In the end, it may not be worth it.

I have used 5/16" 316 SS cable for less popular routes. If you do use it, do not use those rope clips that have a bolt and nut going through them which you tighten. Instead swage the cable closed. That way, you do not have sharp rope clips and steel cable end points all over the place that could damage the rope or injure someone grabbing the anchor. Also, if you are going to run this anchor over and edge, use chain. Even steel cable will wear down and eventually fail if it is loaded over an edge.


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By slim
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

i think its totally not worth it, particularly in terms of time. also, if it is indeed running over an edge it should be chain - cable would fray and break pretty quickly if it was repeatedly loaded in that condition.

20kns advice about swaging would be ok if you had a serious swaging machine (ie not a little nicopress). it takes some work to be able to produce consistent swage quality. a good example was a gal (i think her name was kate) that took a massive fall on el cap a few years back. IIRC a bunch of swaged rivet hangers that she bought from some dirtbag broke.

if you were dead set on cable, 3 crosby clamps (properly installed, which is consistently NOT the case when i run into this setup) would be the way to go. but again, just use chain.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 9, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

I would stick with chain also. Good 3/8" proofed galvanized chain will last plenty long, it is simpler and you wont have sharp frayed wire as things get worn.


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 9, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Chain. Cable is too hard to inspect and you won't know when its going to blow.

Cable is nice in concept, but, I just don't trust a swager without a proof test. And, over an edge with wear and tear? Nah.

Maybe consider that a permanent TR anchor isn't really needed...


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By mattm
From TX
Oct 9, 2012
Grande Grotto

20 kN wrote:
I have used 5/16" 316 SS cable for less popular routes. If you do use it, do not use those rope clips that have a bolt and nut going through them which you tighten. Instead swage the cable closed. That way, you do not have sharp rope clips and steel cable end points all over the place that could damage the rope or injure someone grabbing the anchor. Also, if you are going to run this anchor over and edge, use chain. Even steel cable will wear down and eventually fail if it is loaded over an edge.


Chain it is. Thanks for the input everyone.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Oct 31, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

I agree with what others have said here - chain is definitely best (though you can add ferrules to the cable at the point of edge contact to protect it).

Anyway I still thought I'd post up a picture of an anchor bolt set-up that I've used a good bit in some areas here in NC (mainly obscure crags with lower-off's) in case you can find it useful. Just make certain you know what you're doing when you're swaging the anchors. I work closely with a local cable rigging company/shop regarding exact measurements and the proper materials.

One side of a double anchor set.  Put 'biners on the loop (duh!).
One side of a double anchor set. Put 'biners on the loop (duh!).


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 31, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Have used cable similar to this: www.towerclimbing.com/dbi-sala-cable-tie-off-anchor-adapter->>> as a high anchor point in rope rescue training with the fire service. We had stuff that had a clear rubber sheath over it to protect it. Worked great and ridiculously strong.


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By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

no ... for the simple reason that if the ends of the chain start wearing out substantially, one can rap off the links above if needed ... and i can come back and snip off the worn links and add a quicklink or two ...


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2012
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

I prefer chain but I've seen the cables used on anchors in the Bishop area. I think Russ makes them and/or they might be able on the Fish website.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Nov 5, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

An example of the swage itself protecting the wear point:

Cable anchors.
Cable anchors.


And a different set-up


Ring anchors
Ring anchors


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