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Unsorted Routes:

Squirming Coil 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
Page Views: 4,482
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Oct 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Wiley Evans styling on "The Squirming Coil."

Description 

Start out matched on the low sloping rail. Figure out how to get your ass off the ground, and reach up high with your right for the crimp/pinch. Move up to the next crimp, and reposition the feet to move up to the slopey jugs above. From here, you keep moving straight out the prow of the arete, using a large rail on the north face of the boulder. Move the feet up, and figure out how to hit the lip with your left. After that it's pretty much over; you move left along the lip until you reach the jug at the left end, pull straight up from here.


Location 

Basically the first real problem you come across on your left, heading up the trail. Right after you come around the corner up the rock staircase, head up the steep dirt trail for maybe ten more feet. You really can't miss it.


Protection 

A couple of pads, and a spotter for the moves out the prow of the arete would be nice.



Photos of Squirming Coil Slideshow Add Photo
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
sweet all around
BETA PHOTO: sweet all around
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Squirming Coil. <br /> <br />-Joe Haught
Squirming Coil.

-Joe Haught
Comments on Squirming Coil Add Comment
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By Tyson Ferryman
From: Bailey, CO
Oct 31, 2012

This has a "new" hold on the right. Looks like part of a flake broke off to create a gaston for the right hand. This allows one to go up left hand first, then gaston right, then bump left up. Still seems V5ish but maybe easier off the deck.

By Bern C.
Jul 7, 2013

I was up there today, and it looks like someone chipped a new foot hold on the left once you get off the deck. Unfortunate but the fun part is figuring out the first few moves of the ground anyways.