Squirming Coil  V5

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V5 [details] FA:  Brian Kimball Submitted By:  Jay Samuelson on Oct 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: sweet all around

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Description 

Start out matched on the low sloping rail. Figure out how to get your ass off the ground, and reach up high with your right for the crimp/pinch. Move up to the next crimp, and reposition the feet to move up to the slopey jugs above. From here, you keep moving straight out the prow of the arete, using a large rail on the north face of the boulder. Move the feet up, and figure out how to hit the lip with your left. After that it's pretty much over; you move left along the lip until you reach the jug at the left end, pull straight up from here.

Location 

Basically the first real problem you come across on your left, heading up the trail. Right after you come around the corner up the rock staircase, head up the steep dirt trail for maybe ten more feet. You really can't miss it.

Protection 

A couple of pads, and a spotter for the moves out the prow of the arete would be nice.

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BETA PHOTO: technical	Wiley Evans styling on "The Squirming Coil."	Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."	Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."