|a. The Uberfall
A easily set-up and oft-done top rope. I've never seen anyone lead it, although I suspect it does get the occasional lead attempt. Reach the top by climbing Squiggles, or climbing the Uberfall Descent and heading left at the top.
Climb the crack, then work your way up the pleasant-looking but often dirty face.
At a thin crack 15 feet right of Squiggles.
Minimal. Injury potential.
|Comments on Squiggles Direct
From: Red River Gorge
May 27, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
This route actually protects fairly well. The crux is protected by a very very small RP.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b R
I've led this twice and never found worthwhile protection until the piton.