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> Prairie Squid Wall
Squids in Blue
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.4 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Chris Miller |
Page Views: | 833 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is predominantly a face climb on plates, with a crack for pro. Start left of the block that sits at the base of the wall (crawl under or climb over). Follow the right-leaning crack to a horizontal, then up left along another crack until it runs out. Climb up and right to the top rope anchor. It is best to pass the anchor and climb the roof above (fun, maybe 5.7) then walk to a crack system to set up a gear anchor. Although you can clip the bolts for a top rope, you will still need to lead past the roof and bring up a second, in order to clean the draws, unless you choose to exit right along an unprotected ledge. Walk to the right (south) to descend and turn right at the end of the wall to return to the base.
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