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Bug Barn Dance Wall
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Squid Orgy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Phil & Andy Renolds
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Bug Barn Dance Wall.
1 Squid Orgy 5.11a
2 [[105...

Description 

If you think you are really solid on 5.10 slabs, this is your route. A really thought-provoking move past about the third or fourth bolt (I think). The roof kills most onsite attempts, but there is a really easy rest right below it that you can scan the move from.

Protection 

All bolts

Location 

The left-most route on the main wall.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 25, 2008

I love this climb! This was my first 5.11 a few years back. Really fun move over the roof--really balancy!
By Dastruption
Apr 24, 2008

Great climb!!! Had to really trust the rubber coming over the roof. It seamed like there were a lot of crimps while I was pulling the roof I had to just choose two and go for it. I will for sure do this one again.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sketchy slab if you go left, or you can follow the finger crack along the enormous plate on the right which makes it much much easier. The roof is probably more like a 5.11b move. Very small and shallow pockets to pull over roof and up to chains.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A really fun climb that requires a lot of balanced footwork. There are 2 crux sections, a lower and upper. The upper one with the roof killed my on-site attempt.

--beta spoiler--
when you are at the roof, I grabbed just right of the bolts. There is a hidden two-finger pocket that was key to pulling over.
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012

Really fun route with a thin crux section early and an awesome roof just before the finish. Huge committing move on tiny crimps to get your feet up over the roof and reach the heaven sent jugs above.
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Aug 23, 2012

This route when first done was rated 5.10d why has it been upgraded?
Is it like the trend going on elsewhere--grade drift...