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Squeezepenny Rib-Fest
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Ambiguously Uncertain Crag
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Squeezepenny Rib-Fest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Where's Bob? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Newton Banks and Mitchell Rea, 05/18/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,013 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Newton on May 19, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This line follows the obvious dihedral on the south face of Ambiguously Uncertain Crag, directly through an overhanging, squeeze-chimney/offwidth. This slot is the crux of the route, and will put up a good fight.
Expect bushes, twigs and dirt, and especially lichen, because no one ever climbs here. But in contrast to D. Lang's opinion, I found the rock underneath to be pretty solid for the most part. The holds are varied and interesting, usually right where you need them, hiding under a bit of lichen. Pro can be tricky in spots.
If you do follow our questionable leadership and do this as one 200 foot pitch, be wary of running out of gear. And be mindful at the crux - the movement involves techniques alien to a lot of modern climbers, and the potential fall could slam you back into the dihedral with injurious vengeance.
Expect bushes, twigs and dirt, and especially lichen, because no one ever climbs here. But in contrast to D. Lang's opinion, I found the rock underneath to be pretty solid for the most part. The holds are varied and interesting, usually right where you need them, hiding under a bit of lichen. Pro can be tricky in spots.
If you do follow our questionable leadership and do this as one 200 foot pitch, be wary of running out of gear. And be mindful at the crux - the movement involves techniques alien to a lot of modern climbers, and the potential fall could slam you back into the dihedral with injurious vengeance.
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