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Primo Wall
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Sucking My Will to Live S 
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Squeeze Play 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve Danboise / Hong
Page Views: 2,841
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Apr 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Brian Kimball.
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  • Description 

    This route is just left of the 12c Sucking My Will To Live. A bit of a squeeze job as the name would suggest but I never felt like I wanted to move right or left to another route.

    The biz starts at the second bolt. Varied climbing on bad holds for 5 bolts deposits you on a "slab" where you can get a marginal rest/shake out. Move left and slap your way up the powerful headwall which you wish were just a little easier. Not over until you clip the anchors.


    Protection 

    Seven bolts to chain anchor.



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    Jamie on Squeeze Play.
    Jamie on Squeeze Play.
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 26, 2005

    I broke a hold, the side pull at the 2nd to last draw. But then I sent it without any new holds.

    By chris deulen
    From: Merriam, Kansas
    Apr 10, 2006
    rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

    I find this climb to be a highly overlooked route at the Primo Wall. While it does use the "cup" crimp on Sucking...and the crimp around the arete near the top of Public Solitude, the movement is exciting with two sweet, varied and creative cruxes. Being that I'm not a 14 climber, anything in the 13 range takes me a while to work, so I can probably honestly say I've worked on this longer than anyone else.

    Following is my beta for both cruxes: After clipping the third bolt from the "crimp rail" with the left hand, return to the crimp, throw out right and squeeze the large pinch (hence the name of the route, as well as its location) with your right, bring left foot up, smear right on the face below the pinch, drop left knee a bit and reach left hand up to good crimp, reset feet, reach right hand up to "cup" hold, clip, bring feet up, pull up several feet to a very hard to see quarter sized quartz two finger crimp with your left, bring right foot up high to the good left-hand crimp on the face, reach right hand over and several inches above the left hand to a better crimp, reset left foot, throw out left to good sloper. Upper crux: from the good sloping rail send left foot out over into the Public Solitude area, reach left hand around the corner to the good "shared" crimp, reset right foot, reach up with the right hand into the sloping slot under the roof, reset right foot, throw out to good side pull near the last bolt with the right, left hand pinches upper arete (left foot comes off), reset left foot to the shared crimp and get a decent kneebar (this always seemed to pinch a nerve in my leg, so beware), move left hand up to nearly non-existent sidepull high up on the left, slap right hand higher up on the side-pull, bring right leg up to slot under roof, throw for the knob that starts the crack to the left of the bolts.

    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2007
    rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

    Chris' beta is quite good -- the only thing I would add is that it's very difficult to clip the last bolt. I couldn't clip it. I took the big whip many times throwing for the "exit" hold before finally sending. Excellent route -- kudos to Steve Danboise and Steve Hong for this late (2004) addition to the crag.

    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 24, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    This is a great route, with two really fun cruxes. What holds are people using at the first crux if you are calling it 13c? Do you step up on the slab as for Sucking My Will to Live or are you doing some abstract moves up and left into Public Solitude? I used the "hard to see two finger crimp" described in the beta by Chris Deulen above, but did not cross right hand to the next higher crimp - instead I just went straight up onto the "slab." I want to get a sense of what holds people are using to finish the first crux section of Squeeze Play, as the route seems very easy for the grade of 13c in my book. All numbers aside, great route!

    By adampeters
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Mar 21, 2009
    rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

    Bart, my friends and I agree with you, this route is probably not 13c if you do the logical line of pulling up on the slab. We did this route about a year and a half ago, it was my first 13, so I don't give much value to the 13c grade here. I think the consensus around here is 13b-ish, depends on your style of climbing though. Although they climb way different, I feel that Public Solitude and this route are around the same grade. If you want to get on a real 13b, try Stuffed Wolf, best one in the canyon!

    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 5, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Interesting, I find Public Solitude much harder than this route!

    By EJM
    Nov 8, 2009
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Pretty fun route regardless of the "squeeze" factor. Doesn't really feel at all contrived when climbing on it.
    I think it's kind of soft at 13b...maybe I was just feeling good in spite of the hangover.

    By Mr. Nick
    Dec 3, 2011
    rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

    I thought this route was fantastic even though it didn't fit my style very well. The bottom crux is fun, and the top was heartbreaker for sure. I literally fell so close to chains I could almost bite them twice. If you have already done Public or are looking to do a first .13b, I highly recommend this route over some of the others in CCC.