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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> A. Ribbon Falls…
> 4. Little Wing Area
Squeeze-n-Tease
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in 4. Little Wing Area
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Andy Devine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Honor thy Father T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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L.D. Getaway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leisure Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Riddler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scuz Ball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Squeeze-n-Tease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Rick Cashner and Angi Morales (Sept '77) |
| Page Views: | 1,054 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Feb 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Scuz Ball, Squeeze-n-Tease, L.D. Getaway, and Andy Devine are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above Andy Devine, which is the easiest way to descend.
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Some 3rd class scrambling is required to reach the slabby ledge below this route. Start up the low angle corner with a hand crack to reach the steeper headwall. The fist crack above is blocked by a flake protruding from the right. Getting around this is the crux. Be gentle with the flake. From here it's a 5.6 offwidth to the top. It is also possible to escape right if you don't have a big cam to protect the offwidth.
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Some 3rd class scrambling is required to reach the slabby ledge below this route. Start up the low angle corner with a hand crack to reach the steeper headwall. The fist crack above is blocked by a flake protruding from the right. Getting around this is the crux. Be gentle with the flake. From here it's a 5.6 offwidth to the top. It is also possible to escape right if you don't have a big cam to protect the offwidth.
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