|The Parking Lot Wall
A fun but not super memorable climb just left of the very popular route Glory Jean's (5.6). Mostly moderate climbing with a couple of interesting moves thrown in between.feels like an easier version of the route to the left Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b) which has the same pattern of cruxes.
Start up the face left of the left facing corner/chimney. Follow bolts up the face to a bit of a bulge. Make a challenging move over the bulge to more good holds and moderate climbing. Continue up to one more tricky spot before gaining the quick clips at the top of the cliff. This puts you about 10 feet left of the clips for Glory Jean's.
The bolt line to the left of Glory Jean's.
8 bolts to Quick Clips.
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The anchors are really far back on this so if you are planning on top roping this bring stuff to extend the anchors.
From: Bozeman, MT
Oct 6, 2013
All the holds on this are good enough, and the sequence straightforward enough, that I would call this a good first lead for people who are doing their first Rumney climb. Certainly less cryptic/sharp/crimpy than most of the other easy climbs on the lower crags.
Missed the second bolt though. No clue how that happened. I remember saying to myself "Christ, this is really runout for a PLW climb"...
|By Calvin Tague|
Oct 7, 2013
At this point there are no quick clips at the top of this route. And in my opinion this is a memorable climb for this wall... good confidence builder with some nice reachy holds.