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Squeeze Job 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Amber Russell Jan '03
Season: winter
Page Views: 534
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 3, 2007

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Nathan demonstrating how to place the first piece ...

Description 

This is a fun short slab route that was originally done with only the first 2 bolts. It finished up and left and around the small overlap/flake at the top to a s/s nut anchor that seems to keep disappearing. There was a 2 bolt anchor added, as well as a better and more direct finish, also protected by a new bolt. The old variation was slightly harder by going left at the second bolt (5.11-).

P-1 Climb up a short section of steepish rock to a high bolt (either stick clip, sling tree, or don't fall!). Note: There is a cam placement about 8' off the ground that some folks find useful. Continue up on some cool friction and small crystals to another bolt. A few crystals from the FA have broken making this whole section a bit less secure. Climb up and slightly right past some pockets (red tricam in one) to a stance and a 3rd (new) bolt. Continue up on good edges to a 2 bolt anchor (new).

P-2 Continue up and right on moderate ground to the top, or up and left into the belay for "Boot Hill".

Location 

This is the obvious short slab right above the right side approach trail.

Protection 

Very light rack, maybe a red tricam and a green or yellow alien size piece.


Photos of Squeeze Job Slideshow Add Photo
Frost Walker starting the climb
Frost Walker starting the climb
The fairly high first bolt.
The fairly high first bolt.
Things get really exciting past the second bolt, but are relatively safe.
Things get really exciting past the second bolt, b...
Tim making the delicate moves at the right of the second bolt.
Tim making the delicate moves at the right of the ...
Frost on-sight send of a nice route!
Frost on-sight send of a nice route!

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