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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Squeeze Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: year round
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The obvious corner route to the right of Bosker. A little dirty and loose down low but decent up higher.

Location 

This is the crack/chimney just right of Bosker Boozeroo. Shown as route number 2 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

Gear to number 2 and 3 camalots to bolted anchor.


Comments on Squeeze Chimney Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 22, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This is the line marked as #2 in the Route Topo Photo.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney" in the guidebooks. It is the slot to the crack on the smooth face right of the corner. It angles left to the corner near the top. This line isn't shown in the Photo.
Both climbs can be done from the same anchor.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 24, 2011

Good information, George. I suspect the real "Squeeze Chimney" route is the 5.8 corner route. I've changed the rating here on this route to 5.8 to clear up any confusion. "Boy What Nice Fellows" is apparently the lightning-bolt crack you describe as 10+ in your comment here but I don't think it's really 11b...