All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags

Squeeze Box

Name: Squeeze Box
Rating: 2.6

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in The Northeastern Crags

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arborist Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Br'er Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Don't Tell Tom aka Et By a Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Happy Camper T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jack Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Beans T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shapeshifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Squeeze Box T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Steady Yeti T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Yeti Beats T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches
FA:	8/24/14 Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker - 2nd pitch Amy Colburn and Mark Sprague Aug 13/2015
Page Views:	2,683 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Amy Colburn on Sep 6, 2014
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Squeezebox is the prominent chimney on the Beanstalk wall. The chimney was formed by a vein of weaker blocky basalt which forms the back of the chimney. Climb the chimney, finding gear in the granite along the way until you reach the flat chockstone that used to form the base of the 'box'. Step up on this and get gear (1/2 to 1") in the crack on climber's left or large gear in the offwidth on the right at first. Layback and bearhug your way up with good jams on the right side of the blocks to the two-bolt ring anchor. The second pitch is still an adventure and not as easily protected as the first.

**(retained for historical purposes, description previous to October 2020: Climb the chimney until you can see through the 'box' to the upper section. You may want to pass the rack through ahead of you so you don't get jammed! Squeeze through the box and continue to the top via more chimney, crack, and some bear hugging moves on the final block.)

Location

When you hike up the trail to the Beanstalk wall, the chimney is right in front of you when the trail meets the wall.

Protection

All trad gear to two bolted ring anchors. I used one large nut (for the first piece) and some of one set of cams to a #3 (for one of last pieces). All the gear goes in the granite- don't bother to place any in the basalt. When you rappel, toss the rope to climbers' right so that it doesn't get stuck in the cracks when you pull it. **yes, there is still some loose rock, it's an adventure climb!

Note-Be aware of the C2013 P1 belay bolts. Non stainless 3/8" 5 pc Rawls were mixed with stainless hangers by mistake. Ten years on, they should be replaced with stainless bolts sooner rather than later due to potential galvanic corrosion inside - M