The right bolted climb on Deliverence rock, Squeal Like a Pig ascends a dihdral with very few holds on the left, a chossy face on the right, and a miniscule crack in the center of the dihedral. Start at the finger pocket just above your head (unless you freakishly tall), and enjoy it, because its the best hold you'll have for about 35 feet. So to make up for this dearth of good holds, you'll have to stem your heart out.
After the 5th bolt, the climbing becomes very slabby. Presently, the slab is covered in about a 1/2 inch of moss. If you plan on doing this climb, you will HAVE TO clean the moss off the top... i would suggest hiking around to the right and cleaning it from the top because the slab is pretty runout, and the fall would suck.
If you're not prepared (like us) you can also traverse left to the grassy area and hope the soil holds.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Top-roping Sqeal like a pig will probably cause a LOT of rope drag unless you bring about a 20' sling to hang past the slab near the top.
|By Aron Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 14, 2002
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The crux of this route was really fun, and I really like the rock of this climb, especially compared to all the other rock in Pine Canyon. This route takes all the balance required in not breaking the grips on other routes in Pine canyon, and actually forces you to do interesting moves.
What I didn't like about this climb is that the top anchor is way over the moss covered top slab. I think it should be bolow this, near the sketchy fifth bolt.
sketchymon. Too much moss on the top! The route kicked ass other than that.
Requires a little more flexibility than you need to climb a 5.11b slab climb.
The fifth bolt sucks!