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BETA PHOTO: JimG nearing the Squashed Spider anchors.
Previously a popular solo route is now a nice bolted route. Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead. The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests.
Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman. Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor.
Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)
12 quickdraws + slings for the anchor
chains at anchor
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 20, 2006
Squashed Spider is a good first-time lead because the 5.7 crux is at the very start so it's easy for the belayer to spot the leader. After that it's mostly a 5.2-5.4 hike on nubbins where most of the exercise is clipping the frequent bolts. Better quality routes are nearby including In Harms Way, Out of Harms Way and, of course, Spiderman.
By Mike Zasadzien
Oct 13, 2014
There's a very good reason for the name of the route: the amount of rockfall that comes down from Spiderman is quite frequent. Please be sure to wear a helmet and keep an eye on people on the route above you. Had a nice softball sized rock slam right next to my ankle without hearing it coming from above. Had a couple little guys bounce off both my partner's and my helmets, and later on saw a french-bread sized rock coming down on that area after we left.