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Spiderman Buttress
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Spiderman Variation 
Squashed Spider 

Squashed Spider 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Smelsar 1978
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 981
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 2, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: JimG nearing the Squashed Spider anchors.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun solo route was recently bolted. Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead. The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests.

Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman. Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor

Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)


Protection 

12 quickdraws + slings for the anchor

chains at anchor



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By JohnK
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 20, 2006

Squashed Spider is a good first-time lead because the 5.7 crux is at the very start so it's easy for the belayer to spot the leader. After that it's mostly a 5.2-5.4 hike on nubbins where most of the exercise is clipping the frequent bolts. Better quality routes are nearby including In Harms Way, Out of Harms Way and, of course, Spiderman.