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Spiderman Buttress
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Cornerstone Variation T 
Explosive Energy Child T 
First Ascent Crack T 
In Harm's Way T 
Out of Harm's Way T,S 
Spiderman T 
Spiderman Variation T 
Squashed Spider S 

Squashed Spider 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Smelsar 1978
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 1,157
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 2, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: JimG nearing the Squashed Spider anchors.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun solo route was recently bolted. Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead. The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests.

Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman. Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor

Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)

Protection 

12 quickdraws + slings for the anchor

chains at anchor


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By JohnK
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 20, 2006

Squashed Spider is a good first-time lead because the 5.7 crux is at the very start so it's easy for the belayer to spot the leader. After that it's mostly a 5.2-5.4 hike on nubbins where most of the exercise is clipping the frequent bolts. Better quality routes are nearby including In Harms Way, Out of Harms Way and, of course, Spiderman.
By Mike Zasadzien
Oct 13, 2014

There's a very good reason for the name of the route: the amount of rockfall that comes down from Spiderman is quite frequent. Please be sure to wear a helmet and keep an eye on people on the route above you. Had a nice softball sized rock slam right next to my ankle without hearing it coming from above. Had a couple little guys bounce off both my partner's and my helmets, and later on saw a french-bread sized rock coming down on that area after we left.