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 ADVANCED
Santaquin Canyon Ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel of Fear 
Automatic Control Theory 
Backoff 
Candlestick, The 
Get Back on It 
Martini S 
Squash Head 
Unnamed 
Unsorted Routes:

Squash Head 

WI3-4

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: Doug Hansen
Season: Winter (Dec to Feb)
Page Views: 2,195
Submitted By: John Ross on Oct 29, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Avalanche debris at base of Squash Head (Jan. 07')
Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a steep curtain of ice about 40 feet tall. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder on the left to bypass the first curtain. The 10 bolt ladder is a route called Martini (A0, M8-9).

P1 (WI4): Usually lots of water running down the first curtain and lots of air pockets. Hopefully good screw placements can be found. Pull over the top to low angle climbing for 30 feet, then walk up a short distance to a scramble to chain anchors on the left.

P2 (WI3): Another exciting pitch. Climb the narrow formation for 50 feet to a low angle chute. Chain anchors are up the chute on the left.

Rappel the route, or continue on to Backoff. To get to Backoff, scramble up the rock/snow above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 60m rope to reach the bottom of Backoff.

Name History: Squash Head was an indian chief that saved the lives of local settlers when he heard of an impending indian raid. Squash Head warned the settlers and told them to leave or they would be killed. After the incident the settlers wanted to name the town after him. Squash Head instead asked that the town be named after his son Santaquin.


Location 

The route is on the south side of the canyon .50 miles up the canyon from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The climb is easily seen from the road. Short hike from the road to the base.


Protection 

Pro: Bring long ice screws for the first curtain. Shorter screws may be needed over the top.
Rope: 60m (1 rappel to Backoff, or three rappels back down Squash Head)
Anchors: chains

Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.



Photos of Squash Head Slideshow Add Photo
JR Rowley - January 2013
JR Rowley - January 2013
Squash Head from the road
BETA PHOTO: Squash Head from the road
Cell phone photo of <a href='/v/squash-head/105879672'>Squash Head</a> on 12-22-07.
Cell phone photo of Squash Head on 12-22-07.
<a href='/v/squash-head/105879672'>Squash Head</a>: Usually done in two pitches. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder (<a href='/v/martini/107944763'>Martini</a>) to bypass the first curtain. Chains for the top of the last pitch are up the chute on the left. To get to <a href='/v/backoff/105879679'>Backoff</a> from here scramble up the rock above the anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 70m rope to reach the bottom of <a href='/v/backoff/105879679'>Backoff</a>. <br />(Photo: Feb. 10, 2005)
BETA PHOTO: Squash Head: Usually done in two pitches. In poo...
Squashhead 1/26/14
Squashhead 1/26/14
Comments on Squash Head Add Comment
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By P. Ivaska
Oct 10, 2007

Warning! Squash Head is prone to avalanches from above. In Jan. 07' my partner and I found a huge debris field with timber in it at the base. Other than that, great route when combined with Backoff.

By builttospill
Jan 25, 2009

Also, it should be noted that you can reach the base of Backoff from the top of squash head with a single 60m rope. At least we were able to yesterday.