Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Squaretop

Select Route:
Cragaholic's Dream T 

Squaretop  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,900'
Page Views: 17,057
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Geir on Feb 20, 2008
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
72° | 39°
Clear
71° | 36°
Clear
67° | 37°
Clear
68° | 37°
Overcast
67° | 45°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Description 

Squaretop is the formation that appears flat-topped when looking at the skyline of the west Stronghold. It is home to one of the Stronghold's best routes, Cragaholic's Dream. To approach Lower Squaretop, where Cragaholic's starts, follow the directions below.



Getting There 

Drive into the West Stronghold to the end of the road. For directions to this point, see climbaz.com/Backcountry/graphi...

For an overhead view of the approach use the .kmz file at this address:

geir.com/googleearth/stronghol...

From the parking area, take the righthand wash (the one next to the fence by the start of the path leading to the East Stronghold). Stay in the main wash, keeping an eye on Westworld dome to your left. After about half a mile, the wash curves to the northeast and heads toward Squaretop. Stay in the wash until Lower Squaretop is to your right and you can see the distinctive triangular roof on the second pitch of Cragaholic's Dream. When the climb is directly above you in the wash, you will find a gully that is easy to follow to the base of the cliff. If you don't make any wrong turns the approach takes about 45 minutes. Total approach distance is just over a mile.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squaretop:
Cragaholic's Dream   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Squaretop

Featured Route For Squaretop
Pitch two with it's classic triangular-shaped roof

Cragaholic's Dream 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Squaretop
Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be much easier to find and prepare for. For those climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Squaretop Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Prewitt
Jan 19, 2009
Possiblity for some ultra high quality bouldering in and around the wash on the way to Squaretop. The hike would probably take 45 minutes with pads.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2009
lots of wide stuff on this dome.
By BenJamN
Mar 5, 2009
Anyone ever climb Barking Lizard? Sounds like a good time according to Kerry's book...
climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...
page two of first ascent...
climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...
By Jim Donini
Nov 19, 2012
Just did Cragaholics with Jack Tackle on 11/17/12. Very good climb....actually a trad climb in an area falsely noted for being trad oriented.
I'll never understand why descriptions say you MUST stem/lieback the first part of second pitch. Rightside in heel/toeing works fine and is much more secure.
To keep the rope from hanging up on the second rap have the first climber rap to new anchors 30 feet above the sling anchors of the last rappel. Then have the second rap to the sling anchor. The first climber then pulls the rope and does a short rap to the slings. From the sling anchors it is one 200 ft. rappel to the ground.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 20, 2012
Topo updated. Thanks Jim!