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South East Arete T 


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Location: 32.3484, -106.5645 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 17, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The distinctive square-cog profile of Squaretop as...


Squaretop is a distinctive square cog sticking out from the north ridge-line of the Little Squaretop Massif complex. While technically not its own mountain, it is distinctly separated from the Little Squaretop summit and its striking profile make it a worthwhile destination for any Organ Mountain climber. Routes are classic Organ Mountain scrambling with a little bit of 5th class climbing mixed in. As with many other Organ Mountain peaks, there are plenty of untapped steep walls along the way, and even some killer steep lines on the summit block itself. Despite these eye-catching walls, it's more probable that Squaretop will appeal to the peak-bagging scrambler type climber than the serious 5th class expert. The standard routes have a full mix of everything that make the Organs great, long technical scrambles, heavy bush-whacking, and just enough summit exposure to thrill.

Getting There 

The "trade" routes (as listed in the Ingraham guide) are approached from the west using the Modoc mine road. Approaches are typically long, involve bushwhacking, and include some degree of 3rd class scrambling. But don't let that put you off, it's a worthy peak!

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.5 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Squaretop
John Bregar rappelling from the summit. A single 6...

South East Arete 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : Squaretop
While not the first route to the summit, this pioneering route has become the trade route for summiting Squaretop. The final pitch up the southeast arete starts is airy and beautiful. While the Ingraham Guide calls this final pitch "High 4th," I felt that a low 5th class rating was more appropriate. The first few moves to establish onto the arete are exposed and difficult to reverse. The preceding "pitches" are 4th class or l...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Squaretop Slideshow Add Photo
surprisingly good rock everywhere
surprisingly good rock everywhere
The Squaretop cog in wintry conditions, January 20...
The Squaretop cog in wintry conditions, January 20...
descending the gully from the Squaretop saddle
descending the gully from the Squaretop saddle
view from Squaretop summit
view from Squaretop summit
view into the valley
view into the valley

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