Cubic rock with several good routes. Some highball boulder problems exist on the W. face of this rock and some lines ranging from about 11-12d exist on the other side. TR setup is pretty easy.
Take Broadway to Table Mesa and turn W. on Table Mesa. Follow Table Mesa all the way to NCAR and park at the NCAR lot. Now take the "NCAR Trail" along the nature walk along the rim of the hill. Look for a trail that cuts left and down the hill to some switchbacks. Follow this trail all the way to the water tower and continue left of the tower down to the Mesa Trail. Here, you will come to a junction with a Boulder Mountain Parks info/map board. Take the Mallory Cave Trail up the hill for a nice hike. You will see several signs for climbing access, but stay on this trail. When you come to the junction of the climbing access to Dinosaur Mountain, take a right up the hill, which is still the Mallory cave trail. Keep following the trail until you see a sign for climbing access to "Der Zerkel." You'll see the nice cliffs just up the hill. :)
Steep route (about -15 deg) on positive holds the whole way. Start on the huge lieback and dyno up to a L-facing flake. Move up to the killer jug, then right up the great finger crack. Now make a move out on the face to the right and finish up and left. Cool route. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Two of the anchor bolts on top of Square Rock had their nuts and hangers stripped. I went up thinking only one was missing, so only replaced one hanger -- the one on the northeast set of anchors. For now, the single-bolt anchor/directional over the north-face toprope is hanger-less; you can use a wired nut threaded over the bolt stud and also back it up with some cams in a little crack just below the bolt. If anyone is headed up there and wants to do a spot of work, I'll get you a hanger and the correct nut (17mm), and you can put it on and tighten it down with a crescent wrench. senorsamet at gmail dot com. Thanks...
All the anchor bolts on top of Square Rock as well as on Babyhorn have been replaced with Stainless Steel Fixe bolts. The old holes were used when possible and the rest were filled in and camouflaged with epoxy. This was done legally through the OSMP bolt replacement process. Enjoy.