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Squamish Shoe?

Original Post
Dale Storti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100

Heading to squamish for 3 weeks in august. Need a crack shoe/ all arounder for the trip. I'm thinking lace up Katanas because I've worn them before and they fit super well, but I was also referred to the lace up anasazis. Ideas?

And I don't think I will throw down for the TC Pro's.....

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

what grades?

the katanas will work well ... but the lace up might be painful for hand cracks as its down turned

the velcros are great for multi as they are flatter for hands/fist cracks ... and you can take em off easily between belays

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

+1 for katana velcros.

Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31

I've climbed hand cracks in Katana Lace-Ups. They're fantastic all-around shoes for climbing hard, and they climb cracks great. They're not so downturned that the hurt. I would recommend them for Squamish.

brat . · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 81

Yeah a lot of stuff in Squamish is lower angle. If 5.10 or under is your game, be prepared to stand on your feet a lot.

+1 Katana velcros. I loved those things in Squamish. Don't go too small.

Dale Storti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100

Well I see myself climbing mostly 10's and 11's, and some 12's. Does anyone know how the anasazi lace ups do in cracks?

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

theres really 2 types of crack climbs in squamish ... the sustained ones where you need to stick your feet into the crack

and those that have a lot of smeary facy/stem moves with the occasional toe/foot jam ...

the former tends to be thin hands to offwidth and usually tops out around the 5.10ish level ... on those uncomfortable shoes can be a biatch ...

ie ... hand jive 10a

handjive 10a

the latter can be any level really, but cracks here tend to get more facy/smeary/stem the harder they get as they get thinner ... in those cases sporty shoes actually work best IMO ..

ie ... sentry box 12a ...

Sentry Box 12a, nightmare rock squamish

either way assuming your going to do the long stuff (the moderate and the hard things) ... you may want a somewhat comfortable pair of toes flat shoes for long cracks/slabs that are aggressive enough to get through the cruxes (like katana velcros) and are easy to take off at belays ...

and a second pair of fairly aggressive sporty like shoes with good edging/standing on crystals for those 11+/12- trad climbs ... and the sport routes

ive used all the shoes you mentioned in squamish and they all work just fine within their limitations ...

Chris Small · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 143

La Sportiva Mythos is the most frequent shoe I see here in Squamish.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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