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squamish multipitch classics
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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2012
adf

spending a week in squamish in august. other than the grand wall, what are some 4-8 pitch 5.9-5.12 multipitch ultraclassics I need to do while I'm there? If its a 5.12 preferably only one pitch in that grade as I can't climb 4 .12 pitches in a row.


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By Zac Barr
Jul 2, 2012

Freeway!


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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Jul 2, 2012
Crux roof on Freeway...

Grand Wall
Freeway
Alaska Highway


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By Dominic Albanese
From Baltimore, MD
Jul 2, 2012
Me climbing on Broken Knee @ Pistol Whipped Wall in Indian Creek UT

Not perhaps as hard as you might like, but I enjoyed these.

Rock On (10a 6 pitches) to Squamish Buttress (10c). Squamish buttress has one good pitch the rest is just ok.

Ultimate Everything (5.9) is a great moderate way to go bottom to top.

Angels Crest (10.c 14 pitches) feels pretty alpine but was my favorite climb of the trip.

Sunblessed is a great rest day 3 pitch 10 ish route way up on the backside of the Chief. Dont skip the last pitch flare!

Enjoy!


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By randy88fj62
Jul 2, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

Calculus Crack 5.9


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jul 2, 2012
Me and Spearhead

The Snake on the Apron is a 5 pitch 9 that I thought was super fun. Snake


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By David.Jones
Jul 2, 2012

Two newer possibilities:

Milk Road on Chief 9p 10d A0

Right Wing on Slhanay (Squaw) 6p 10c

Topos, etc here:

jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_Routes.html


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By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 2, 2012
Me on top of Chianti Spire

I very, very highly recommend both Borderline and Blazing Saddles.

Supposedly there is a way to link Borderline into Angel's Crest (via dirty ledges?), which you could then link into High Plains Drifter, which would be a helluva day.

If you're really game for 5.12, Daily Planet looks sweet.


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By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 2, 2012
Me on top of Chianti Spire

randy88fj62 wrote:
Calculus Crack 5.9


5.8, please. Fight grade inflation!


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By Jason Price
Jul 2, 2012

Angels Crest is really cool! It starts with a tree climb! You can end it with High Plains Drifter which is spectacular; solid 5.11 but only 2 pitches.


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By CJC
Jul 2, 2012

cruel shoes > grand wall

stairway to heaven


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By Rafe
Jul 8, 2012
hardman

I hear the grand wall is choss


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By sibylle
From Colorado
Jul 21, 2012
Stone of Ignorance.

Millenium Falcon (5.11)! I've also climbed Squamish Buttress, Angels' Crest, Europa, Sunblessed, Calculus Crack, and for long, multipitch routes, Millenium Falcon was my favorite.
Sunblessed has a terrific crack pitch, but has only three pitches.


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By Hans
From North Vancouver, BC
Jul 31, 2012

The new guidebook has a Top 100 list, and this is a good place to start. Some of the routes mentioned above are great choices, while others .... not so much.

Consider the following:

Centrefold
Angel's Crest
Grub Street Complex
Great Game
Cruel Shoes
Milk Road
Right Wing
Grand Wall
Freeway


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