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squamish multipitch classics
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Jul 2, 2012
spending a week in squamish in august. other than the grand wall, what are some 4-8 pitch 5.9-5.12 multipitch ultraclassics I need to do while I'm there? If its a 5.12 preferably only one pitch in that grade as I can't climb 4 .12 pitches in a row. Spencer Weiler
From Salt Lake city
Joined Jun 9, 2008
2,345 points
Jul 2, 2012
Freeway! Zac Barr
Joined Apr 14, 2002
13 points
Jul 2, 2012
Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...
Grand Wall
Alaska Highway
Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
7,392 points
Jul 2, 2012
Me climbing on Broken Knee @ Pistol Whipped Wall i...
Not perhaps as hard as you might like, but I enjoyed these.

Rock On (10a 6 pitches) to Squamish Buttress (10c). Squamish buttress has one good pitch the rest is just ok.

Ultimate Everything (5.9) is a great moderate way to go bottom to top.

Angels Crest (10.c 14 pitches) feels pretty alpine but was my favorite climb of the trip.

Sunblessed is a great rest day 3 pitch 10 ish route way up on the backside of the Chief. Dont skip the last pitch flare!

Dominic Albanese
From Baltimore, MD
Joined Oct 31, 2007
473 points
Jul 2, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Calculus Crack 5.9 randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Jul 2, 2012
Me and Spearhead
The Snake on the Apron is a 5 pitch 9 that I thought was super fun. Snake Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
143 points
Jul 2, 2012
Two newer possibilities:

Milk Road on Chief 9p 10d A0

Right Wing on Slhanay (Squaw) 6p 10c

Topos, etc here:

Joined May 29, 2009
1 points
Jul 2, 2012
Me on top of Chianti Spire
I very, very highly recommend both Borderline and Blazing Saddles.

Supposedly there is a way to link Borderline into Angel's Crest (via dirty ledges?), which you could then link into High Plains Drifter, which would be a helluva day.

If you're really game for 5.12, Daily Planet looks sweet.
Eric Fjellanger
Joined May 8, 2008
774 points
Jul 2, 2012
Me on top of Chianti Spire
randy88fj62 wrote:
Calculus Crack 5.9

5.8, please. Fight grade inflation!
Eric Fjellanger
Joined May 8, 2008
774 points
Jul 2, 2012
Angels Crest is really cool! It starts with a tree climb! You can end it with High Plains Drifter which is spectacular; solid 5.11 but only 2 pitches. Jason Price
Joined Jun 8, 2006
5 points
Jul 2, 2012
Mashers Tower
cruel shoes > grand wall

stairway to heaven
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Jul 8, 2012
I hear the grand wall is choss Rafe
Joined May 5, 2009
545 points
Jul 21, 2012
Stone of Ignorance.
Millenium Falcon (5.11)! I've also climbed Squamish Buttress, Angels' Crest, Europa, Sunblessed, Calculus Crack, and for long, multipitch routes, Millenium Falcon was my favorite.
Sunblessed has a terrific crack pitch, but has only three pitches.
From Colorado
Joined Aug 2, 2005
4,536 points
Jul 31, 2012
The new guidebook has a Top 100 list, and this is a good place to start. Some of the routes mentioned above are great choices, while others .... not so much.

Consider the following:

Angel's Crest
Grub Street Complex
Great Game
Cruel Shoes
Milk Road
Right Wing
Grand Wall
From Squamish, BC
Joined Oct 14, 2007
1,211 points

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