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The Buttress lies on top of The Apron, on the south side of the Rock On Gully. On the North side of the Gully is The Ultimate Everything. The Squamish Buttress route, when linked with several of the Apron routes allows for a full day of climbing to the top of the Chief. In addition to the two multi pitch routes, there are a number of hard single pitch cracks on the final headwall.
The Buttress is a nice continuation of several lines that end on the Broadway ledge, including Diedre, Snake and Rock On. The former two require walking Broadway and climbing Memorial Crack (5.) The latter ends at the top of memorial Crack.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squamish Buttress:
The Squamish Butt Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
The Squamish Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 6 pitches
Featured Route For Squamish Buttress
The Squamish Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b North America : Canada : ... : Squamish Buttress
Pitch 1: starts below the small roofs, where there is a pin to protect the move. Angle around the left edge and up with minimal gear. Belay at a small tree about half way across the slab (5.8)Pitch 2: Continue left across the slab on more sparse gear placements, but easy climbing to another tree at the start of a ledge (5.5Pitch 3: After moving the belay around the corner to the left, climb easy 5th class corners for a full rope length to a good ledge surrounded by trees. The best moves are...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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