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Upper Darth Vadar
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Blustery Day 
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Squall 
Three Easy Pieces 
Victim of Love 

Squall 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 2, 2007
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Alex working on the hard crux of Squall.... If he ...

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Description 

This climb is at least a letter grade harder for the short climber.
Start out on the ledge right of three easy pieces and get you hands into a nice sharp jug. Make a move and gain some move sharp moves(will be hard for short climbers to make the reach) continue up then move up and left out bigger holds to anchors. Excellent footwork is required for this climb to feel do-able for the shorter climber.
I would not suggest this climb for the 5.10 climber with soft gym hands.


Location 

Route just right of 3 Easy pieces, starts on ledge


Protection 

Bolts to Anchor on tree (bunch o' slings)



Photos of Squall Slideshow Add Photo
Doing it the Smitty way.
Doing it the Smitty way.
Squall 10d <br />almost to the anchor
Squall 10d
almost to the anchor
Traversing to the correct anchors.  (don't worry i flipped the rope after the pic was taken)
Traversing to the correct anchors. (don't worry i...
Squall
Squall
Squall 5.10c/d, Upper Darth Vader crag, Rumney, NH, USA.  Spring 2010.  Matt Wilson just after the crux.
Squall 5.10c/d, Upper Darth Vader crag, Rumney, NH...
the tricky crux at the bottom of the climb <br />very hard for shorter people
the tricky crux at the bottom of the climb
very ha...
Comments on Squall Add Comment
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By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 16, 2007

the top of the route traverses left quite a bit between the last bolt and the anchors, which unfortunately are two sets of chains. It sucks to take a whipper at the chains (or at least it looked like it sucked) but there is a bomber jug just left of the chains to help keep you cool when clipping in.

By BTodd
May 26, 2008

this is an awesome climb. I agree that the start is really difficult for shorter climbers (my friend couldn't follow it, because she couldn't reach the first hold) and yes it does seem like a long way to the chains from the last bolt. I missed the last bolt because it was on the left side of a point that you come around and I was just focused on getting to the chains...but luckily the second to last bolt was on the other side of that point...phew

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Fun, strong moves up and past the 2nd bolt. The guidebook mentions to head towards the chains at the top of Three Easy Pieces, but there is an additional tree anchor that is more centered with the start of the route. There are multiple 4th bolts that could be used, but it doesn't make sense to clip them both -- they are nearly parallel to each other and appear to be specific for the anchor you decide to use. If you avoid the tree anchor, cleaning can be slightly difficult.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 25, 2008

Grrr... How many times do the slings need to be cut off the tree? The second chain anchor was put there for a reason; so the tree would not be used. It is a small pine tree and it's use as an anchor is not going to extend it's life any. Besides, using a 4 inch pine tree at the edge of a cliff as your sole anchor is not the smartest move. With a half way decent belay, a fall near the end shouldn't be a problem, and you are on big jugs.

The FA was done by Chris Smith.

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
May 10, 2010

The slings on the tree have been removed. It is not a good anchor and there is the bolt on the other side for a reason.. to put you at the corner anchor chains. Put a 24" sling on either or both of them and the fall and rope drag is not bad at all. the moves are 5.8 at most.. you just finished a 10d. sack up. If you are afraid of a 4 foot lead fall perhaps you should go back to the gym. Have someone TR it.. or TR it again yourself if you can't tram across and clean it. You can unclip the first bolt from the ledge and downclimb.

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Jun 22, 2010

Can the shorter climber add number grades if needed?

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jul 7, 2010

I'm 5'7 and have no problems doing the start when you get the feet right. see the pics of me doing it "Smith" style for proof :)

By S. Neoh
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

You all might be glad to know that there was no sling anchor on the pine tree today. The message has gotten through, I guess. Nice, independent chain anchor next to the anchor for 3 Easy Pieces.
Oh, yeah, this route felt at least as hard as 3 Easy Pieces to me. I am pretty short.

By SmithBro
Mar 3, 2011

I clip the 4th bolt with a long draw, to keep the rope on the left of the nose. Leslie has used a cheater stone at the start for the last 17 years, And I can't stop her.

By Aaron L.
Oct 17, 2011

Here is a video of me following Squall. I am 6'1", so I can reach up to the slot while still standing on the boulder. Still plenty of fun though...