Alex working on the hard crux of Squall.... If he ...
This climb is at least a letter grade harder for the short climber. Start out on the ledge right of three easy pieces and get you hands into a nice sharp jug. Make a move and gain some move sharp moves(will be hard for short climbers to make the reach) continue up then move up and left out bigger holds to anchors. Excellent footwork is required for this climb to feel do-able for the shorter climber. I would not suggest this climb for the 5.10 climber with soft gym hands.
Route just right of 3 Easy pieces, starts on ledge
the top of the route traverses left quite a bit between the last bolt and the anchors, which unfortunately are two sets of chains. It sucks to take a whipper at the chains (or at least it looked like it sucked) but there is a bomber jug just left of the chains to help keep you cool when clipping in.
this is an awesome climb. I agree that the start is really difficult for shorter climbers (my friend couldn't follow it, because she couldn't reach the first hold) and yes it does seem like a long way to the chains from the last bolt. I missed the last bolt because it was on the left side of a point that you come around and I was just focused on getting to the chains...but luckily the second to last bolt was on the other side of that point...phew
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Jun 25, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Fun, strong moves up and past the 2nd bolt. The guidebook mentions to head towards the chains at the top of Three Easy Pieces, but there is an additional tree anchor that is more centered with the start of the route. There are multiple 4th bolts that could be used, but it doesn't make sense to clip them both -- they are nearly parallel to each other and appear to be specific for the anchor you decide to use. If you avoid the tree anchor, cleaning can be slightly difficult.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 25, 2008
Grrr... How many times do the slings need to be cut off the tree? The second chain anchor was put there for a reason; so the tree would not be used. It is a small pine tree and it's use as an anchor is not going to extend it's life any. Besides, using a 4 inch pine tree at the edge of a cliff as your sole anchor is not the smartest move. With a half way decent belay, a fall near the end shouldn't be a problem, and you are on big jugs.
The slings on the tree have been removed. It is not a good anchor and there is the bolt on the other side for a reason.. to put you at the corner anchor chains. Put a 24" sling on either or both of them and the fall and rope drag is not bad at all. the moves are 5.8 at most.. you just finished a 10d. sack up. If you are afraid of a 4 foot lead fall perhaps you should go back to the gym. Have someone TR it.. or TR it again yourself if you can't tram across and clean it. You can unclip the first bolt from the ledge and downclimb.
I'm 5'7 and have no problems doing the start when you get the feet right. see the pics of me doing it "Smith" style for proof :)
By S. Neoh Sep 5, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
You all might be glad to know that there was no sling anchor on the pine tree today. The message has gotten through, I guess. Nice, independent chain anchor next to the anchor for 3 Easy Pieces. Oh, yeah, this route felt at least as hard as 3 Easy Pieces to me. I am pretty short.
If you're worried about the slightly run-out traverse to the anchors, don't be. The fall is clean. I got all the way up to the anchors clean but I was so pumped I couldn't clip them and took a nice clear whipper into space. Bummed I didn't get the send, but at least the fall was fun :)
Also, I'm about 5'7" with a 5'8.5" wingspan and I can just reach the slot from the start boulder. Any shorter and you'll probably have a harder time.