Spung-Lick-A-Litus
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | David Caunt |
Page Views: | 1,354 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 5, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Access Issue: Reopened! Permit Required (see details)
Details
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Description
This climb is located on the arete of the upper rock of the lower tier. It will be the second climb you come to down the approach trail.
Cruxes are getting off the deck and a balancy roof move between the 4th and fifth bolts on the arete.
This would be a better route if it were climbed a little more, as considerable time was spent simply cleaning moss out of necessary grips.
Cruxes are getting off the deck and a balancy roof move between the 4th and fifth bolts on the arete.
This would be a better route if it were climbed a little more, as considerable time was spent simply cleaning moss out of necessary grips.
Photos
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