Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Parking Lot Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beauty and the Beast T 
Funky Bolt T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 
Stress Fracture T 
Tow Away Zone T 

Spud Meets Hammerhead 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rhodes, OR Boyle, Barnes
Page Views: 1,562
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Gentle with the feet!

Description 

This is the first sport route to the right of "Just another Pretty Face" on the East side of Parking lot rock. The climb trends right with some fun fiction moves with palming and underclings. The climb eases for a few moves. The crux is at the bulge above. It can be climbed on the left with poor feet. A fun variation goes to the right with interesting underclings. Moderate climbing leads to the anchor.


Protection 

Draws


Comments on Spud Meets Hammerhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Very nice line. Extreme friction and lip-chewing up through the first 4 bolts. Getting above the danger zone (bolt 2) took all my inner strength. Some reachy moves gets you above bolt 4 followed by easier climbing with one cool one-finger undercling (two, if your fingers are skinnier). Then the steep face. This seemed, not quite harder per se, but difficult in it's own right, at least the initial moves with the chalked pocket that you lunge from. Maybe my technique, or ability to see the moves was lacking here. But, after this committing move, the climbing eases to some steep edging that was a nice finish for a great route.

I personally felt the crux was that entire lower face. bolts1-4
By Blitzo
Oct 24, 2006

Thought it was more like 5.11a.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 22, 2011

It's pretty rare to get a pure friction climb that is not run-out, but that's what the first 5 bolts or so are. Really good.
By kevinhansen
From: Albion Idaho
Sep 4, 2012

Totally bonkers to lead. If you're not feeling it, climb funky bolt then tension traverse over to the chains. This route is friction dependant. NO hands and just steep feet for the first 4 bolts. Maybe you wana stick clip the second bolt to avoid a sprain or worse. With more traffic the route will polish and get even harder.