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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gelnn Ritter August '91
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 25, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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BETA PHOTO: Me on Springer 5.10b


Steep slab with very few positive holds in the crux that are placed just so that you really have to trust your feet.

The climb starts with some easy 5.5ish climbing and contiues almost all the ay to the roof, then you are hit by the crux. The crux comes just before the anchors with one long move that goes at 5.9+ but is very scary (for sport climbing).
Edited to add* While now I don't see this climb as scary, especially because the bolt is right there, I remember being quite scared the first time I led this one. Also the first time I led it the crimp right after the crux was super slick with green goo, and my hand blew off twice before I could latch the hold.

Delicate moves that rely far more on balance than strenght will guide you up this one, remember to use the force to levitate up the holds on this climb.


Right most route on the slab section.


6 bolts to Cold Shuts.

Photos of Springer Slideshow Add Photo
KS trying to keep her fingers from freezing on this cold 35 degree day in late March.
KS trying to keep her fingers from freezing on thi...
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By Rafiki
Oct 30, 2007

I dunno if I'd say that move was "very scary". I lead this my first time climbing outside and felt totally comfortable on it.

By Punter Brewster
Jul 21, 2009

I think it would be wise to remove the scary crux move comment. The bolt is right at your chest, and couldn't be better protected.

By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think the "scary" comment has to do with the fact that the last two bolts are spaced so far apart. In order to get to the last bolt you have to balance onto a small ledge, but you're already above the last bolt. It could be scary for somebody with an active imagination or who has had a bad experience with falling on slab.

Very interesting crux slab. Otherwise not a very interesting climb.

By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Apr 28, 2011

Pretty easy until the top. Kind of a one move wonder. Just a thin move on a small crimp then it's over. Fun climb though.

By Brandy Walters
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The route was fine until the just above the last bolt. I'd studied the last few holds, worked out the sequence, only to discover that the last 3 holds were wet, muddy, and very slick. It had rained heavily the day before and I didn't realize how shaded and wet the top would be. I matched on the first crimp which was muddy but slightly dry on the very edge, but when I moved my right to the next hold, it was a puddle at which point both hands slipped right off. Major bummer! I slipped off about 4 more times before traversing to the much drier Boing. Cleaning the draws while anchored on Boing gave some hard slightly scary swings on the highest bolts. Don't do this route unless it's been dry for at least 2 days.