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Springer Gulch Wall

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Bill and Britt One S 
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Kokopelli S 
Lichen Cleavage S 
Schmaussers S 
Sunkist S 
Surfing With The Alien S 
Unknown S 

Springer Gulch Wall  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011
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Description 

The wall sits high above the entrance to the Springer Gulch Campground area (see photo). The south-facing wall does not appear to get much traffic, but the rock is good and it appears to have a variety of bolted climbs.

NOTE -- for route descriptions in this area and around Colorado, I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd Edition (2010)" guidebook. I've bought most of the guidebooks for Colorado, but if I could only purchase one, this would be it :-)

Getting There 

As you enter the Springer Gulch Campground, there are a few campsites at the bend in the road before it goes about 400 yards up to the main campground loop. The wall is directly (and high) above these first campsites. From the these campsites, look up (north) to see the wall, cross through the second campsite and follow a path that heads uphill to the wall. It's easy to find, but the last 1/3 of the hike is fairly steep uphill. It's about a 10 or 15 minute approach hike to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Springer Gulch Wall:
Sunkist   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Lichen Cleavage   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Bill and Britt Two   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Springer Gulch Wall

Featured Route For Springer Gulch Wall
Starting the crux section.

Surfing With The Alien 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : South Platte : ... : Springer Gulch Wall
Start with a reachy move to gain a ledge, then follow the seam/crack until it peters out and the angle steepens. Crank through the crux zone and work your way onto "The Ramp". A final headwall with positive but pumpy holds guards the anchors. Old school bolt spacing adds some excitement! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Springer Gulch Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left hand side of Springer Gulch Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Left hand side of Springer Gulch Wall.

Comments on Springer Gulch Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Broussard
From: CordryCorner
Sep 15, 2014
A short walk around the (climber's) right and slightly uphill of SGW is another wall with a handful of bolted routes. Is there any info on these routes?
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Sep 16, 2014
That sounds like the Scoop Wall J.