Scramble up the loose access trail to the base of P-Wall. When you are looking straight at the rock, take a right toward the right side of P-Wall. Once you scramble up a short (10') 4th class section, stop and you'll find yourself at the base of the Spring Route. It's name comes from the small spring dribbling out of the rock at the start of the climb. Work your way up a crack to the right and wander around to a bolt just left of the anchor chains. To experience the 5.8 crux, climb straight up after the bolt (hard to protect) or work your way right on easier ground (5.7), then straight up to the anchor. Once at the anchor, you can lower off, continue up to a new set of anchors about 20' above (good top rope location), or continue up to the top of P-Wall. The original line continued all the way to the top (quite mungy). Once you set up the Spring Route anchors, top rope the two starting variations, Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and Leaping Lizards (5.9+). Climbers in this area are guanteed to have good views and (usually) solitude.
You'll need a variety of small nuts and cams up to about 2". Bring a couple slings for the chain anchors on top.
BETA PHOTO: A - Rusty's Cave (5.8PG)
B - Epidural (5.10b)
C - ...
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I'm not exactly sure what I climbed... it was an exercise in route finding for me. The photo with the red line drawn for the route was definitely helpful in finding the route though.
I didn't think the protection was that great (except for the bomber 1-2" crack/pocket about 25 ft up on the left lower portion of the route); the bolts were welcome.
|By John Knight|
Feb 25, 2011
I added a bit better beta photo that might help sort out the routes in and near Spring Route. Hope this helps you or the next crew out there.