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BETA PHOTO: Just above the crux pull over the roof.
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This is one of the first documented routes on the Red Slab, and dates to the beginning of the modern route development period in the canyon. It was originally led on gear, and it's highly probable the general line was climbed earlier with a few points of aid in the roof. Climb a short slab to a break across the right side of the roof. A bolt in the roof and another just over the lip protect the crux of turning the roof and liebacking a right-slanting seam. Easier climbing follows the break straight up the wall with another interesting move by the fifth bolt. One more clip leads to the ledge and a shared anchor with "Diamondback". The bolts were added a few years after the initial ascent to stimulate traffic. Some will argue against them, but I've never seen anyone lead the route without the clips. As it stands, it is a fun and reasonably popular line. If you want the thrill of a gear lead, go for it. Just don't mess with the fixed pro.
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. Or do it in the style of the original ascent with a standard rack of wires and cams to #2 ("S" rated on gear).
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002
Compared to other routes on the wall (ie. Slip and Slide) the roof seems a bit stiff for the grade and the second clip comes in the middle of the crux with ledge-fall potential. It is sort of a one-move-wonder, the climbing is easy above.
By Jessica Pemble
From: Yosemite, CA
Oct 20, 2011
The second clip was a bit sketchy if you're on the short side on the spectrum, but sick nonetheless. Super fun climbing above the roof!