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 ADVANCED
Spring Crag

Select Route:
Bandwagon, The S 
Loose Nut S,TR 
Mount Up S 
Stripped Nut S 

Spring Crag  


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Elevation: 7,000'
Page Views: 1,659
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tristan B on Jun 13, 2010
Forecast:
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Description 

A small 40-50 ft rock next to a small creek with 4 bolted routes from 10a to 11c. The rock is like metamorphic granite, it is pretty smooth and has features like new jack.

Getting There 

The craig is about 2 miles east of Williamson on Angeles Crest Hwy 2. The gate is usually shut at Islip Saddle/Hwy 39 for the winter, when the gate is open drive about a 1/2 mile past it and park next to a old rock wall with a hand rail. Hike up and right on a climbers trail for about 10 mins and then cross the stream when you see the crag on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spring Crag:
Loose Nut   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Spring Crag

Featured Route For Spring Crag
The route tends to wander just a bit and is over vertical all the way past the 4th bolt. The exit moves are spicy on granular rock.

Loose Nut 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Spring Crag
The right most route on the south face. The whole route is slightly over hanging and really pumpy but all the holds are there....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Spring Crag Slideshow Add Photo
The West Face of the Spring Crag from the approach trail.
BETA PHOTO: The West Face of the Spring Crag from the approach...
The South Face of the Spring Crag
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Spring Crag
The parking area for the Spring Crag.
BETA PHOTO: The parking area for the Spring Crag.
View from the creek
View from the creek

Comments on Spring Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 14, 2010
You can get to the top easily, but the bolts to set up Loose Nut are kinda sketchy to get to to TR. We built a trad anchor at the top to clip into to get down to set it up. From there with another rope you can swing and climb over to set up Stripped Nut and Bandwagon. It looks pretty hard to try and set up Mount up for TR.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 14, 2010
The first bolts are a little high, you might want a stick clip because if you fell you'd tumble down the hill.
By David Carrera
Sep 30, 2012
The names and ratings seem all mixed up. The guidebook is (L. to R.) 11c, 10a,(no two-bolt var.listed), 11a, 10b/c. The 10 b/c I thought was a TR. But what do I know? I didn't put these up. Ask Troy Mayr, or Jack et al.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Sep 30, 2012
Sorry, I never saw the guide for it. I Just got the names from RC.com, then went out and climbed them. I posted some comments about how some felt harder than what they were so maybe they are mixed up. Either way it's a real small place and all the routes are about the same rating. It's not like some beginner is gonna accidently hop on an 11+ thinking it's an 8. But I can try and edit it if you or someone knows the correct info.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 14, 2013
Nice work, Tristan. As David indicated the old Williamson Rock guidebook lists the routes; 11c, 10a, 11a, & 10b/c, but they all seemed a bit harder. "Stripped Nut" was fun and exciting, on great orange rock, while "Loose Nut" climbs a challenging face with holds that lean awkwardly, to a great powerful tiered upper section. Definitely, worth a visit, but the routes are relatively short and as you state tumbling down the slope is a definite possibility.