Spring Canyon lies in the northwest region of Island in the Sky Mesa. It drains into the Green River at Bowknot Bend and is used by 4x4 enthusiasts and mountain bikers to access Hey Joe Canyon which is farther upstream. The road (Spring Canyon Bottom Road) owes its existence to the miners who worked this land in the mid 20th century. The main attraction in Hey Joe Canyon is the Hey Joe Mine which produced Uranium.
Though Spring Canyon is smaller than it’s neighbors to the south (Hell Roaring, Mineral, and Taylor) it still offers 350 foot walls and several towers on which to play. The rock here is mostly weathered Wingate. You will find pitches of incredibly quality, but it’s no Indian Creek.. You could probably get a Subaru down into Spring Canyon, but a 4x4 is recommended.
Not much is known about the climbing history of this canyon. At least three towers have routes to their top. Andy Roberts and Jason Repko climbed here in 2000 when they climbed Roadside Fling Tower.
We found 3/8” bolts on another tower we are temporarily calling Pointy Tower.
Ben Kiessel, Ian McAlexander and I climbed a new route on what we think was think was a new tower a couple years ago. We named it Plumb Tower.
Other than that…? It would be nice to know the real name of Pointy Tower…
From Moab take 191 north to 313. Drive west on 313 for 8.2 miles and turn right onto a dirt road. (Spring Canyon Bottom Rd.) You will pass a BLM kiosk and parking viewpoint on the left just before you reach this road. Follow this road for approximately 1 mile and go straight/left at the Dunbinky Well Road junction. Continue along Spring Canyon Bottom Rd. for a dozen miles until you begin the steep descent into Spring Canyon.
This is an excellent route up one of the biggest towers in Spring Canyon. The route follows an obvious, natural line and offers engaging climbing on mostly solid rock. There are some loose spots on the third pitch but they’re short lived and not too bad. The rest of the route more than makes up for it. It awaits a first free ascent.Pitch One - Find the obvious right facing dihedral that faces the road and climb it to the top of Purge Pillar. The gear is thin at the start. Belay from two bolts....[more]Browse More Classics in UT