Spring Canyon lies in the northwest region of Island in the Sky Mesa. It drains into the Green River at Bowknot Bend and is used by 4x4 enthusiasts and mountain bikers to access Hey Joe Canyon which is farther upstream. The road (Spring Canyon Bottom Road) owes its existence to the miners who worked this land in the mid 20th century. The main attraction in Hey Joe Canyon is the Hey Joe Mine which produced Uranium.
Though Spring Canyon is smaller than it’s neighbors to the south (Hell Roaring, Mineral, and Taylor) it still offers 350 foot walls and several towers on which to play. The rock here is mostly weathered Wingate. You will find pitches of incredibly quality, but it’s no Indian Creek.. You could probably get a Subaru down into Spring Canyon, but a 4x4 is recommended.
Not much is known about the climbing history of this canyon. At least three towers have routes to their top. Andy Roberts and Jason Repko climbed here in 2000 when they climbed Roadside Fling Tower.
We found 3/8” bolts on another tower we are temporarily calling Pointy Tower.
Ben Kiessel, Ian McAlexander and I climbed a new route on what we think was think was a new tower a couple years ago. We named it Plumb Tower.
Other than that…? It would be nice to know the real name of Pointy Tower…
From Moab take 191 north to 313. Drive west on 313 for 8.2 miles and turn right onto a dirt road. (Spring Canyon Bottom Rd.) You will pass a BLM kiosk and parking viewpoint on the left just before you reach this road. Follow this road for approximately 1 mile and go straight/left at the Dunbinky Well Road junction. Continue along Spring Canyon Bottom Rd. for a dozen miles until you begin the steep descent into Spring Canyon.
Whoever did the first ascent of this climb has a good eye. It’s a compelling line. Pitch one – Climb up to a bolt and then out a series of small roofs on what turns into a beautiful hand crack. Continue up a right facing dihedral and then climb up and right past a bolt to a belay on a ledge. (5.9, C1)Pitch two – Step left from the anchor and climb the crack past a fixed pin until you are perched below a 5-6 inch offwidth that diagonals up and right. Climb the wideness to a belay on the shoulder...[more]Browse More Classics in UT