Start off the ramp about 50 feet right of the large squeeze/dihedral (Face Value). Look for a small tree growing behind a loose flake.
Head up off the flake past the tree (place a dicey, small nut, tricam, or TCU in the seam) to the first bolt (5.8). Follow the bolts (4 or 5?) up the face to the anchors. This route is a good intro to climbing on Helen's Dome.
Rap the route with double ropes (one 60m will just get you to the top of the flake forcing a downclimb).
Take 8-10 quickdraws and a small wire/tri-cam/TCU for the initial seam. Fixe rap anchors at belay.
|By Matt Chan|
Oct 24, 2005
I take it bolts have been added? I think Ken Trout's guide says that there are only two bolts and making the pitch runout.
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 11, 2009
I counted 6 bolts to the anchors. Very civilized.
|By Jeff Buhl|
Jul 14, 2014
Really nice route - you can also get a decent red Alien in right before pulling into finishing slab. It's a good run to the anchors from the last bolt, albeit moderate climbing.