Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
96 Degrees S 
Almost Blue S 
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 
Buttercup S 
Deputy, The S 
Dreadlock Holiday S 
Duran Duran S 
Duran's Pharmacy S 
Full Penetration S 
Gank Move S 
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 
Inchworm Arete S 
Insider Trading S 
Little Caterpillar S 
New Kids on the Block S 
Red Tag Sale S 
Sinister Dane S 
Spreadlock Holiday S 
Too High for Bry S 
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 
Unknown Lance Route S 
Window Shopping S 

Spreadlock Holiday 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield, Bill Sprague and John Kear February 08
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Passing the mid anchors on "Dreadlock Holiday...

Description 

With excellent rock and challenging movement this new variation is one of the better, lines on the wall. It's only detractions are sharp rock, and being slightly squeezed between the other lines on the wall.

Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.

I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.

Location 

Shares start, mid-anchors, and first bolt with Dreadlock Holiday. Starts just right of "Red Tag Sale" and Left of "If you can't do it Glue it"

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors


Comments on Spreadlock Holiday Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 8, 2009

Uugh...SHARP, the holds out the upper bit are pretty viscous, relatively easy to hold for their size since they bite back.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 19, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Timy and Bill Sprague bolted this one and I got to do either the first or second ascent. Bill and Timy named this one Speadlock Holiday. It was rated 12c.