|Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
With excellent rock and challenging movement this new variation is one of the better, lines on the wall. It's only detractions are sharp rock, and being slightly squeezed between the other lines on the wall.
Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.
I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.
Shares start, mid-anchors, and first bolt with Dreadlock Holiday. Starts just right of "Red Tag Sale" and Left of "If you can't do it Glue it"
10 bolts to anchors
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 8, 2009
Uugh...SHARP, the holds out the upper bit are pretty viscous, relatively easy to hold for their size since they bite back.
|By John Kear|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 19, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Timy and Bill Sprague bolted this one and I got to do either the first or second ascent. Bill and Timy named this one Speadlock Holiday. It was rated 12c.