Spreadlock Holiday  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Timy Fairfield, Bill Sprague and John Kear February 08 Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Feb 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Passing the mid anchors on "Dreadlock Holiday Vari...

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Description 

With excellent rock and challenging movement this new variation is one of the better, lines on the wall. It's only detractions are sharp rock, and being slightly squeezed between the other lines on the wall.

Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.

I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.

Location 

Shares start, mid-anchors, and first bolt with Dreadlock Holiday. Starts just right of "Red Tag Sale" and Left of "If you can't do it Glue it"

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors