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Electric Avenue
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Dogleg 
Electric Avenue 
Fido 
Frau Bluka 
Same Place Different Girlfriend 
Spot 
Young Frankenstein 

Spot 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, 88
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 29, 2011
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Description 

Spot climbs an immaculate shield of red patina on perfect crimps (read: small and sharp) to a heartbreaking finish with barely any holds. Lots of climbing packed in the short 60' of this excellent route, felt hard for 11a.

Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...


Location 

Spot is the rightmost route on Electric Avenue and climbs along the right skyline of the formation. Beautiful at sunset although the rock radiates enough heat to get you sunburnt. Morning shade.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors. Optional small cam before the 1st bolt.
The last bolt and anchors are shared with the route to the left (Fido). Scary TR as the route traverses left a ways and the bolts are spaced. Scraping fall guaranteed.



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