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Yin and Yang Cliff
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Sport Wanker Extraordinaire 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Roxanna Brock, 2000
Page Views: 1,251
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Oct 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

On the west side of the Yin & Yang cliff is an obvious splitter offwidth roof crack. It is a beastly climb that will have your attention from start to finish. Tape up. The crux is the first 20 feet fist stacking and foot camming through the roof.

Protection 

#4, #5, #6 Camalots x2


Photos of Sport Wanker Extraordinaire Slideshow Add Photo
This climb is a LOT of fun
This climb is a LOT of fun
Hand stacks will bring you only a fleeting sense o...
Hand stacks will bring you only a fleeting sense o...
Entering the slightly confusing geometry of moves.
Entering the slightly confusing geometry of moves.

Comments on Sport Wanker Extraordinaire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cultivating Mass
Oct 31, 2011

Nice, dude. Someone actually did this thing! Respect. Gave it a halfhearted go in shorts once, didn't last long. Might have to get up there and give er another try!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 31, 2011

I'll post photos soon. Wear jeans and a long sleeve or give blood. This is a pretty burly route and keeps your attention at the top because it's quite crumbly. Definitely worth it though
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 2, 2011

Yeah, the attempt I made was with one 5" cam and a pair of shorts, I walked away when my knee started to give up blood. Look forward to the pics-been so long since I looked at this one, I'd almost forgotten it was there!
By Tradoholic
Nov 2, 2011

Done by a bunch of top ropers from WI! Seek and destroy sport wankers Andy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 21, 2012

After thinking about the grade of this one for a while, I don't really think 5.11+ is accurate. I think 5.11 is good.
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Nov 30, 2012

I think you gotta send before you can downgrade my friend!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 1, 2012

Not if I'm downgrading from the comfort of my couch!