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Sport routes at Seneca Rocks
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By Kirby
From DC
Apr 4, 2013

Hey people,

I know there are some 12s in the cave area, like Predator and Fine Young Cannibals.. But I seem to remember hearing about a few other routes, perhaps of more moderate grades, located to the right of Ambush/Block Party in the Southern Pillar area. My buddy is uncomfortable with leading trad, but would like to lead some sport while we're at Seneca, and Franklin may be out of the question because he wants to bring his wifey and dog.

Anybody have any info?


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Apr 4, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Kirby wrote:
Franklin may be out of the question because he wants to bring his wifey and dog. Anybody have any info?


Personally, if I had to, I'd rather take the wife and dog to Franklin than Seneca. Although I would try to leave the dog out of the equation entirely, it would be much safer at Franklin. Single pitch moderates with a few hard routes sprinkled in, to me sounds better than multipitch crumbly where rockfall is known to be quite common at times. And Franklin is only like 30 or 45 minutes away. Not to mention the shorter approach. That's just me though. Maybe do one day at Seneca and let the wife and doggy walk around while you guys do some multi, and the next day do some sport craggin' at Franklin. Sounds like the best solution. Whether or not it's feasible with you, the buddy, the wife and the dog is another story. Good luck Kirby.


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By Kirby
From DC
Apr 4, 2013

Thanks man. Just a bit worried about the access issues at Franklin when it comes to dogs. Don't want to be a jerk. We may just have the wifey take the dog somewhere else while we do a few routes at Franklin. Seems like the best bet. I agree about rockfall and dogs at Seneca.. Scary stuff. I'd be happier with the pup over near the Southern Pillar (on a leash), since at least that means there are less people above us.

Cheers!


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By Mut
Apr 4, 2013

I have no idea but I do have a funny sport climbing story about Seneca.

I was there for my first climbing trip ever (1987) and what was to be the first lead climbing I had done. I was 16 and with some friends from DC. We had been climbing a bunch at Great Falls but only top roping. We showed up to Seneca with a top rope set up, one set of nuts and some tied draws. After wandering around for a good part of the day and scaring ourselfs on some 5.8 (we thought we were hot shit 5.9 climbers from Great Falls) we asked someone who appeared to be a seasoned climber where to find some bolted routes. He gave us the classic "walk around to the front side and walk all the way down to the end and then keep going and you will find something."

All we found was a nice hike. We were so green we didn't even realize he was screwing with us.


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By Kirby
From DC
Apr 5, 2013

Great story, Mut. I'll be sure to continue the tradition if I ever get the chance with whoever today's equivalent to you is!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 5, 2013
Day Lily.

Seneca daze 5.7 on south peaks west face not far from prune. That's a sport route. A super fun route. South peaks east face down below lower broadway has a few sport routes 5.6/7-5.9. At least 2-3 there.

If at seneca, albeit I dont think there are bolts, with a dog check out the single pitch lower slabs.

Enjoy!


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By J Watts
Apr 5, 2013

A few years ago I climbed a 5.9ish "3 pitch, sport route" on the south peak, east face. I strung all 3 "pitches" together with twin 60m's. I only placed a green alien to supplement the bolts. It was called T&T or M&M or something like that. I believe it is listed in the addendum(the back of the book)of the newest edition of the guide book.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 5, 2013
Day Lily.

There is also a 5.9 (if I remember correctly) on the left wall (if climbing up) on the 3rd pitch of skyline traverse/lsd that has 3-4 bolts. Not convienent for your situation, but a bolted route.

Also sunshine 5.10 has A bolt. Ok so not a "sport" route but it has a bolt...the bolt is about 25ft up and the only possible pro before the bolt is the smallest passive gear available...it is an easy approach however and with a 70m can be top roped for a good time if you didn't want to lead it.

Its amazing how many bolts are at a "strictly trad" place...


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