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sport rock climbing sites in different state
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By gont
Apr 7, 2012
hello, I am French. I prepare a two-month trip to the florida usa mexico, in auguste and september 2012. I just climbing sports. my level is 5.10b. I spotted climbing sites in different state. I am looking for sites equipped of one or more lengths can you give me your opinion on my list? What book would you buy? dixie cragger's atals guide georgia alabama ? tennesse ? independance âss rock climb
utah's wasatch range ? mapple canyon climbing ? Rock n'road ? jack canyon arizon ? logan canyon climbs utah. Do you think no need book with mountain project information it's ok ?

Foster Falls in georgia
Rocktown in gorgia
Lost Wall georgia
Mount Yonah (Georgia)
Obed & Clear Creek tennesse
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (Arkansas)
Sam's throne (Arkansas)
Warsaw  missouri
monitor rock colorado
buena vista colorado
garden of the gods colorado
the wall colorado spring
Morrisson/ evrgreen colorado
Rock canyon UTAH
mapple canyon rock utah
Locan canyon UTAH
mont charlestone nevada
arizona flagstaff
jack canyon arizona
arizona Queen Creek Canyon
homestead arizona

thank you for information

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 7, 2012
El Chorro
That's quite a strange list. I've never even heard of some of those places.

Those areas are all thousands of miles apart, and many of them will be scortching hot in August and September. Your best bet is to head up to Wyoming and climb at Ten Sleep, or any of the other mountain states, as they are all higher in elevation. Some crags (but not all) in Utah, Colorado, and parts of Arizona would be climbable in summer. If you can handle heat, you could try the New River Gorge in West Virginia. Plenty of shady climbing there. Other than that (and maybe some small crags in the northeast), you can count pretty much the whole eastern part of the US out for sport in those months. There are good areas with higher elevation and a lot of shade, but I wouldn't really consider them destinations, and many of then start in teh 11's anyways.

As far as guide books, it just depends on what you want to buy. I'd pick two to four major areas that you want to see and maybe get a book or two about those areas. They'll be cheaper in the US than in France so just wait until you get here.

Do you have any partners? A car? A lot of money? These things will also determinte where you will want to climb.

Have fun!

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By JJNS
Apr 7, 2012
August and September in the southeast could be very warm. You should come out west for those months. Will you be renting a car? Why Florida and Mexico?

Wild Iris/Sinks canyon to Tensleep to American Fork to Maple Canyon to Mill Creek to Rifle to Independence Pass to Shelf Road to Devil's head to Clear Creek to The Flatirons to Boulder Canyon.

Come back fall of 2013 and do the Southeast circuit, October and November.

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Apr 7, 2012
Stabby
Your list is too beaucoup.
Just plan on going directly to:
Red River Gorge (September)
Tensleep
Rifle

Meet people, and set up additional places to visit from what they tell you.

And try to get better than 5.10B so you won't be limited to the warm-ups for each area.

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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Apr 7, 2012
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
skip everything you've got at colorado springs. I don't even know what "the wall" is.

Instead of morrison do independence pass or shelf (rifle isn't the place for a 10b climber).

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By Dobson
From Butte, MT
Apr 7, 2012
Not familiar with the other places, but Tensleep leaves a lot to be desired if you're climbing in the 5.10 range. I didn't start enjoying the place until I could start working the elevens and twelves.

Smith in Oregon has a nice selection if easier sport climbs. I find it to be uncomfortably hot in August.

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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 7, 2012
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.
Rifle may not be the best place for a 10b climber but if you're a sport climber in the area it seems like you'd be sorry you didn't at least visit for a few days, at least. There is a growing number of routes in that grade range in Rifle thanks to new bolting so Rifle is increasingly becoming a place for 5.10 climbers.

Agreed about some of those other areas like Independence Pass. A lot to do.

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By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Apr 7, 2012
Nice view
Ryan Williams wrote:
Your best bet is to head up to Wyoming and climb at Ten Sleep, or any of the other mountain states, as they are all higher in elevation.

Ten Sleep is the best sport climbing area I've been to (along with Smith Rock!) in the US. Just go there and let loose. There is also Devils Tower pretty close for a nice outing as well! I don't know about pure sport climbing at Monitor rock and Buena Vista. They is more mixed or pure trad lines there. Enjoy!

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By Rob Dillon
Apr 7, 2012
The Monitor has lots of pure sport climbing, but you need to bring a partner.

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Apr 7, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life
If you're coming to Utah specifically to climb, neither Logan Canyon nor Rock Canyon should be on top of your list. If you're a 5.10 sport climber, Maple is a destination crag and that's about it. I'd recommend heading up to the City of Rocks in Idaho. Lots of moderates and gorgeous scenery.

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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Apr 7, 2012
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow
Gont,
Good luck with your travels. I grew up near Warsaw, MO, and I can assure you that you don't want to climb there in August. High temps each day will be 38-40d C, and very humid. Instead, just keep driving toward Colorado.

Though I've never climbed at Horseshoe Canyon, I hear its great, but it will also be miserable in August. I suggest that unless you have a compelling reason for the drive, you should plan on spending August out west (Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, etc) and then drive back to Florida. On that drive, I would suggest the Red River Gorge in Kentucky, then the climbs in Georgia and Tennessee.

Matt.

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By gont
Apr 7, 2012
hello
thanks you for the answers.

I prepare a travel one years or more with my girl friend (partner). we travel with small van. After the usa we go in central america maybe south america.
We have a small budget but we hav all treking equipments and all rock climbing equipments, one rack nuts and 5 friends but not a lot of experience. We have the small experience for multiple route.

gont

continue to provide information thanks

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By Greg Barnes
Apr 7, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.
That time of year it would be better to start in the west and just travel south, going to higher altitude crags in dry climates. You could start in Salt Lake or Boise or Portland (wherever you find a good deal on a van), go to City of Rocks, Lake Tahoe (various crags), Mammoth area stuff (Clark Canyon has tons of sport routes under 10b), Tuolumne (lots of bolted easier routes, not too many that are tightly bolted), check out Yosemite Valley (won't find sport routes at that rating but worth visiting without climbing), then head south. If you skip the Valley it's not that far out of the way to get over to Vegas and Mt. Charleston, but there are very few routes at lower ratings.

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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Apr 7, 2012
Mathematical!
I'm gonna go ahead and call "Troll" on this one.

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By jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Apr 8, 2012
Mean Green P2
Coming from someone who doesn't really enjoy sport climbing that much, I really liked Wild Iris and the Sinks of Lander in Wyoming. At an elevation of about 2,700 meters and accessible by road, the temperature in August and September will be anywhere from 0 to 30°C. The climbs are all single pitch (less than one length), but the quality is good. Camping is also free in the area on public land. Other areas are close by (by US standards), such as Fremont Canyon or Tensleep, and the some of the High Uinta (Utah) crags. There are thunderstorms in August, but it is a quick walk back to the car and they tend to be short lived.

There are a lot of other places that are better, but not many that I would want to spend time at in August.

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By Mikel Cronin
Apr 9, 2012
South Dakota is a great choice. You have 700 plus limestone sport routes, mt. Rushmore 900 plus routes, the needles 1000 plus routes. 1 hour from devils tower and 3 hrs from ten sleep. Check out more in the new guide spearfish canyon, the VC and other black hills limestone, blackhillsclimbingguide.com. the new rushmore book will be out in a month or so. Lots of good moderates, sun and shade.

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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Apr 9, 2012
Mikel Cronin wrote:
South Dakota is a great choice. You have 700 plus limestone sport routes, mt. Rushmore 900 plus routes, the needles 1000 plus routes. 1 hour from devils tower and 3 hrs from ten sleep. Check out more in the new guide spearfish canyon, the VC and other black hills limestone, blackhillsclimbingguide.com. the new rushmore book will be out in a month or so. Lots of good moderates, sun and shade.

Spearfish Canyon is an amazing. It brings a "I cant believe I am the only one here" type tone. Great climbing with no one around, its a shocker.

FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Austin Baird wrote:
If you're coming to Utah specifically to climb, neither Logan Canyon nor Rock Canyon should be on top of your list. If you're a 5.10 sport climber, Maple is a destination crag and that's about it. I'd recommend heading up to the City of Rocks in Idaho. Lots of moderates and gorgeous scenery.


Austin,
Can you please send me back the BOTS stopper that you have misappropriated from the group.

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Apr 17, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life
"Misappropriated from the group"? You're lucky I haven't passed the bar yet; I think that borders on libel. I could sue you and make you turn over all your first ascents and hardest redpoints to me.

It's on its way to Mister Jon Steitz, of Maine. I'm writing up its adventures now.

FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Austin Baird wrote:
"Misappropriated from the group"? You're lucky I haven't passed the bar yet; I think that borders on libel. I could sue you and make you turn over all your first ascents and hardest redpoints to me. It's on its way to Mister Jon Steitz, of Maine. I'm writing up its adventures now.

Great that it is on its way.
Misappropriated is not liable. It's a reasonable charge since the rules are, and I quote...

"6) If you have not used it and posted within 4 weeks, expect to be harassed. This ain't the "Brotherhood Of the Sittin-In-The-Closet Stopper."


You obtained it in Nov 2011... You are 16 weeks overdue!
Not answering the many queries about the item doesn't lead to any additional confidence...

But I'm glad we're getting it back into circulation and with a story.

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By Jon Marek
From SLC
Apr 17, 2012
gossamer
+1 for Spearfish Canyon. However, if you are only able to climb up to 5.10b, you'll most likely have a hard time finding stuff you can do...and the 10b climbs are usually solid. But if you can climb 5.12, the canyon is awesome. Tensleep has way more moderates...and really soft 5.10s. The rushmore area has a bunch of great 5.10 and below routes (Baba Cool 5.9 comes to mind).

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By germsauce
Apr 17, 2012
Hippos kill people
i thought all frenchman warmed up on 12a?

Maybe he meant 10b on the french scale, which would be like, 5.16a/b?

Gont,
I'd agree- the southeast will be tres chaud in those months. but if that's all you can do because you have to start in Florida, then c'est la vie.

Your Colorado list seems misguided, avoid Colorado Springs, you will enjoy Shelf Road, lots of great moderate routes and you can chase shade there.

If you are into alpine climbing, check out some of the moderates in Rocky Mountain National Park, or sport climbing around the adjacent Estes Park.

Tensleep is great, beautiful etc.. but a bit out of the way given the amount of routes you'll be able to access at 10b limit.

I would hit RedRock instead of Mt. Charleston, plenty for you to do there on sport.

Skip Missouri.

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By germsauce
Apr 17, 2012
Hippos kill people
and if you are going to Mexico, then you MUST go to El Potrero Chico. C'est Spectacular!

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By Mike-R
From springfield, Mo
Apr 24, 2012
bouldering
If you are going to Horseshoe canyon ranch (Arkansas) I am from that area and would be happy to show you around there some time. Message me for a number if you are stopping by there. Warsaw (Missouri) is not bad and I can take you there too.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Apr 24, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
Hey le Français, c'est gros l'Amérique! Bonne chance. Si jamais tu veux venir au Nouveau-Brunswick, tu es le bienvenue et il fait beau ici l'été.

FLAG


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