Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 891 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Dave Fiorucci on Aug 7, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Great holds, and very fun to climb. The offwidth is a great place to pratice your body jam. Be careful not to get stuck in the rock.
Per Tony B: You can link Dead Boy to Osiris or just add some length on independent pitches. The rock is pretty good and some pro is available here and there, but not always right where you'd want it.
Eds. This combination of submissions was done to reduce duplication in the database.
Per Tony B: You can link Dead Boy to Osiris or just add some length on independent pitches. The rock is pretty good and some pro is available here and there, but not always right where you'd want it.
Eds. This combination of submissions was done to reduce duplication in the database.
Location
This is the furthest route right of the Pages Wall. This is the fattest crack on the wall.
Per Tony B: Start from the Dead Boy anchors and head up onto the arete on the right.... Continue up cracks and horns to climb the right side of the arete for 60+ meters over the belay bolts to a cord-on-horn rap station. Belay on good gear to the right, then rap to the ground in 4 single raps. Double rope raps will only result in stuck ropes.
Per Tony B: Start from the Dead Boy anchors and head up onto the arete on the right.... Continue up cracks and horns to climb the right side of the arete for 60+ meters over the belay bolts to a cord-on-horn rap station. Belay on good gear to the right, then rap to the ground in 4 single raps. Double rope raps will only result in stuck ropes.
Protection
Use stoppers and cams from #1 to #4. This will lead up to a two bolt anchor to the left of the route.
Per Tony B: Take long slings and enough pro to protect proportional to the length of pitches.... If running first 2 pitches together for 65m from ground up below Dead Boy, you need a double rack.... If pitching out into 3 pitches, a single rack should do.
A 70m rope makes the raps listed possible.
Per Tony B: Take long slings and enough pro to protect proportional to the length of pitches.... If running first 2 pitches together for 65m from ground up below Dead Boy, you need a double rack.... If pitching out into 3 pitches, a single rack should do.
A 70m rope makes the raps listed possible.
2 Comments