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Sport draws for cams
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Nov 25, 2012
Almost to the top of GI Joe.
I have recently transitioned from sport climbing to trad, so I have a bunch of sport draws I want to use. The thing I worry about is that the carabiners that usually go on the bolts have been marked up and somewhat chipped from the bolts. Now I know it is a bad idea to run a rope through carabiners that are used to go on bolts, but I'm wondering if its ok to use these to extend cams by clipping them to the slings? has anyone else ever wondered about this? markie mark
From Provo, Utah
Joined Jun 24, 2012
25 points
Nov 25, 2012
Polish off any nicks and youll be fine

Use em, dont worry about itand go climb

Its that simple ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,941 points
Nov 25, 2012
#2
according to pretty much eVERY carabiner manufacturer, ANY blems or defects in the metal could and can result in failure. Carabiners aside, if there are burrs or subtle "rigosities" these will, over time, abraid the supple nylon fabiric of cam slings (or any other nylon counterparts for that matter.

also, depending on how you are "polishing off" it's possibly to increase the temperature of the carabiner again, compromising its structural integrity.

Finally, is the doubt as you clip into that shiny new cam as new trad climber really worth the $5.25 for a new biner? You will find your self on mixed and, yes, even sport routes again, long after you transition into the trad world. Keep em handy and I recommend buying a carabiner for each cam that is unque to that cam, that way you can look down at your racked gear loop mid route an pull the exact peice you want/need.
Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Joined Dec 6, 2010
82 points
Nov 25, 2012
if it's gouged or chipped- toss it. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,265 points
Nov 25, 2012
markie mark wrote:
I have recently transitioned from sport climbing to trad, so I have a bunch of sport draws I want to use. The thing I worry about is that the carabiners that usually go on the bolts have been marked up and somewhat chipped from the bolts. Now I know it is a bad idea to run a rope through carabiners that are used to go on bolts, but I'm wondering if its ok to use these to extend cams by clipping them to the slings? has anyone else ever wondered about this?


You have less than nothing to worry about.
ethlogo
Joined Jan 21, 2011
2 points
Nov 25, 2012
I think it depends on how big the gouges/nicks are. I've had several biners get noticeable gouges from bolt hangers and I've just smoothed them out with a file or a bit of sandpaper and haven't thought about it since, but if it does make you nervous, $5 is pretty cheap peace of mind.

I do think it's best to not use them for clipping slings with appreciable nicks and gouges because it could cause damage to the sling of a cam.

I suppose you could always just clip the thumb loop of the cams but that seems like a PITA to me, unless it's a short term solution.
John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Administrator
Nov 25, 2012
El Chorro
bearbreeder wrote:
Polish off any nicks and youll be fine Use em, dont worry about itand go climb Its that simple ;)


Best answer you're gonna get.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Nov 25, 2012
the man was smart
bearbreeder wrote:
Polish off any nicks and youll be fine Use em, dont worry about itand go climb Its that simple ;)


yep, use the shit out of them. mine look the same and have for 20 years. you could just flip the draws over at an anchor and TR through them if you want to polish them a bit.
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,054 points
Nov 25, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
Dafuq. Some of these responses blow my mind. I see no reason to chuck good draws. Use judgement... Should be fine. Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
80 points
Nov 25, 2012
First trad lead.
Wow, I can't believe how paranoid people are. I've been using my sport draws for trad for a few years now and they work great. The small edges that resulted from clipping bolts or taking whips on bolts have not worn the slings of my cams at all. Save yourself the money (to buy more cams, or even better, offset nuts- they are amazing) and use your sport draws. You may find yourself switching to wiregate binered draws to cut weight though. Chris I
From Fresno, CA
Joined Nov 4, 2007
118 points
Nov 26, 2012
Almost to the top of GI Joe.
Thanks for all the advice, guess I am being a little paranoid. I'd rather that than die! markie mark
From Provo, Utah
Joined Jun 24, 2012
25 points
Nov 26, 2012
Relevant: Carabiners and Potential Rope Damage Lanky
From Tired
Joined Jun 20, 2008
407 points
Nov 26, 2012
Not really relevant as hes not clipping the rope end to it .... And a simple polish of those nicks will solve the "issue" regardless bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,941 points
Nov 26, 2012
I use two different color carabiners to differentiate between bolt/gear end and rope end. It's not that big of a deal either way. Just like everything else in climbing, it depends. Also, +1 for offset nuts, best buy ever. I use them on at least %75 of my climbs. Andrew Blease
From Damascus, VA
Joined Apr 25, 2010
348 points
Nov 26, 2012
He's being *told* to polish out nicks and I get a load of crap from several people about polishing out an imperfection in a few of mine that I got from Gear Express. I posted in the review section a while back. Where are those azzhats on this thread??? Dan Felix
Joined Aug 24, 2012
46 points
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
A good way to get a nice smooth edge on them is to hang the draw on something with the "nicked" end down. Then take an old piece of rope or cord you don't use anymore and run it back and forth through the basket of the biner while applying pressure. Takes a shorter amount of time than you'd think to get rid of any burrs or nicks. Even if one is pretty heavily gouged, it's still a good biner that you can use elsewhere. Try it out. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
El Chorro
Yea just get an old retired rope and get it all wet and muddy. Then run it through the bolt end of your draws w/ body weight. They'll end up nice and smooth in no time. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Ryan Williams wrote:
Yea just get an old retired rope and get it all wet and muddy. Then run it through the bolt end of your draws w/ body weight. They'll end up nice and smooth in no time.


Yep. +1
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Dec 14, 2012
Foot
just to add my 2 cents as you polish off those burs you are removing material from the carabiner and creating a smaller crossection to distribute the load. This will the reduce the strength of the carabiner, but it is impossible to tell by how much. most of our gear is designed with a huge safety factor and can take some abuse, but I would caution against removing material from any piece of equipment that is expected to hold in the case of a fall.

use those old carabiners to hold your water bottle and shoes. or give them to some one who kayaks that is where my old ones end up.
kcradford
From Asheville, NC
Joined Feb 21, 2012
6 points
Dec 14, 2012
#2
kcradford wrote:
just to add my 2 cents as you polish off those burs you are removing material from the carabiner and creating a smaller crossection to distribute the load. This will the reduce the strength of the carabiner, but it is impossible to tell by how much. most of our gear is designed with a huge safety factor and can take some abuse, but I would caution against removing material from any piece of equipment that is expected to hold in the case of a fall. use those old carabiners to hold your water bottle and shoes. or give them to some one who kayaks that is where my old ones end up.


+1
Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Joined Dec 6, 2010
82 points
Dec 14, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
Are you guys kidding me???? Look at how the rest of the world climbs and how OLD and beat their gear is. A little bit of body weight polishing will destroy your biner... Seriously??? Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
80 points
Dec 15, 2012
Medic741 wrote:
Are you guys kidding me???? Look at how the rest of the world climbs and how OLD and beat their gear is. A little bit of body weight polishing will destroy your biner... Seriously???


I thought I was an 'early retirer' of gear. Truth be told, I would have thrown away 20 quickdraws THIS YEAR if I got rid of everything with a knick. Sure, get rid of things that are worn the fuck out, but simple bolt knicks? Every time you fall you get one. It really is not something to worry about. Hilarious thread guys.

Good on the OP for being aware, good on a lot of responders telling him how to sand them down.
shotwell
Joined Feb 20, 2011
0 points
Dec 15, 2012
how much "material" is lost by a slight polish ...

WAY less than what you lose off your belay biner in a few months of use ... guess those people here who project their irrational fears onto others replace their belay biners every 6 months ;)

after all a belay biner IS a single point that is keeping someone alive ....

THINK people =P
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,941 points
Administrator
Dec 15, 2012
El Chorro
We had a rule in Thailand. If It took you more than a half a second to decide weather or not to toss a biner off the side of the boat, then it was still good to climb on. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Dec 15, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
I really should have taken pics of the dirt bag Chilean climber's racks to show y'all. Many of you would have a fit.

On the topic though sport draws for cams are semi pointless. The alpine draw is far superior. For a little extra weight you gain a ton of versatility.

Favorite trick throw some doubled slings over your shoulder with 1 biner on each sling. Plug cam clip sling clip rope done.
Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
80 points


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