My partner and I are looking to clip bolts on our way from Moab to Zion later this month. I'm familiar with Mill Creek but am looking for the next choice spot. Leading 5.11+ish right now...

Check out wall street. There's a couple of bolted routes there not far from town. But pardon my French, but why the eff would you drive to the desert to clip bolts? Seems like a waste of life to me? Especially if your on the way to Zion I'm sure you've got gear? Unless your screen name holds true??

Excuse me but it sounded like you said "Moab", "Zion", and "clipping bolts" in the same sentence!

If you are going to Zion, just wait till you get there and go climb some sport routes in St. George.

There are some bolted sport routes that look really good right by the Lightbulb in the Buckhorn Wash. I have no information about them other than they climb through some really cool huecoed rock and are probably in the 5.11ish range.

also a few routes up kane creek, just before ice cream parlor. can't remember much about them other than some nice huecos. i think they might be beyer routes (which i kind of find odd for some reason). they should be shady in th morning to afternoon or so. you could warm up on them, then maybe run up to ice cream and do 'possessed' real quick.

I fully expected the phrase "masturbating in a whorehouse" to pop up, but it never did. I put you in a box, internet climbing denizens, and you proved me wrong. Bravo. And a Del reference to boot. I think my brain is about to herniate with ecstasy while I'm pissin' on your steps.

it took pretty much everything i had to not type that phrase. if it were a question about bouldering at the gunks, i probably wouldn't have succeeded.

maybe the correct desert term would be 'flogging the pony in the parking lot of the mustang ranch'?

You are a stronger man than I am, Slim.

Unfortunately, I live near the Mustang Ranch. As a teen I rode a bus from Reno to Sacramento with my seatmate (seatmate only, folks!) a Mustang Ranch employee ("sex worker", we colloquially call them in NV, a whoremongoring slut of a state). She had a lot of enlightening things to say about whoring. Also, some funny shit about John Wayne Bobbit, who was working as a bouncer at the brothels at that time. I grew up a lot that day.

Sport climbing in Moab is like drinking coffee in a crack house

You could check out this place: www.mountainproject.com/v/jungle-on-the-aquarius-plateau/106>>>

Haven't been myself but it looks like fun.

You know there's a bit of sport around St. George as well.

Henries? Cedar City?

kolob canyon.

yea if overhanging RRG jug hauls is what you're after then definitely go "out of your way" to get to maple. even 1 day of climbing there will be worth it.

On a related note, I've always wanted to make a calendar of people bouldering in front of world class climbs.