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Sport climbing near Moab?
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Apr 10, 2012
The Crew
My partner and I are looking to clip bolts on our way from Moab to Zion later this month. I'm familiar with Mill Creek but am looking for the next choice spot. Leading 5.11+ish right now... Lurking Queer
Joined May 20, 2011
19 points
Apr 10, 2012
RJN
Check out wall street. There's a couple of bolted routes there not far from town. But pardon my French, but why the eff would you drive to the desert to clip bolts? Seems like a waste of life to me? Especially if your on the way to Zion I'm sure you've got gear? Unless your screen name holds true?? Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points
Apr 10, 2012
Excuse me but it sounded like you said "Moab", "Zion", and "clipping bolts" in the same sentence! Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Apr 10, 2012
meow
If you are going to Zion, just wait till you get there and go climb some sport routes in St. George. Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 18, 2011
259 points
Apr 10, 2012
Bucky
Bob Dobalina wrote:
Excuse me but it sounded like you said "Moab", "Zion", and "clipping bolts" in the same sentence!


Not trying to jack the thread, but I'm pretty sure that you (Mista Dobalina) can't be trusted....need proof? Just ask the Funkiest Homosapien:


J. Albers
From Colorado
Joined Jul 11, 2008
2,225 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
Andrew Gram
There are some bolted sport routes that look really good right by the Lightbulb in the Buckhorn Wash. I have no information about them other than they climb through some really cool huecoed rock and are probably in the 5.11ish range. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,579 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
also a few routes up kane creek, just before ice cream parlor. can't remember much about them other than some nice huecos. i think they might be beyer routes (which i kind of find odd for some reason). they should be shady in th morning to afternoon or so. you could warm up on them, then maybe run up to ice cream and do 'possessed' real quick. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Apr 11, 2012
Colonel Mustard
I fully expected the phrase "masturbating in a whorehouse" to pop up, but it never did. I put you in a box, internet climbing denizens, and you proved me wrong. Bravo. And a Del reference to boot. I think my brain is about to herniate with ecstasy while I'm pissin' on your steps. Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,381 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
it took pretty much everything i had to not type that phrase. if it were a question about bouldering at the gunks, i probably wouldn't have succeeded.

maybe the correct desert term would be 'flogging the pony in the parking lot of the mustang ranch'?
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Apr 11, 2012
Colonel Mustard
You are a stronger man than I am, Slim.

Unfortunately, I live near the Mustang Ranch. As a teen I rode a bus from Reno to Sacramento with my seatmate (seatmate only, folks!) a Mustang Ranch employee ("sex worker", we colloquially call them in NV, a whoremongoring slut of a state). She had a lot of enlightening things to say about whoring. Also, some funny shit about John Wayne Bobbit, who was working as a bouncer at the brothels at that time. I grew up a lot that day.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,381 points
Apr 11, 2012
s
Sport climbing in Moab is like drinking coffee in a crack house $t0& 960
From Colorado
Joined Mar 10, 2012
56 points
Apr 11, 2012
You could check out this place: mountainproject.com/v/jungle-o...

Haven't been myself but it looks like fun.

You know there's a bit of sport around St. George as well.

Henries? Cedar City?
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
300 points
Apr 11, 2012
Lurking Queer wrote:
I'm familiar with Mill Creek but am looking for the next choice spot.
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Apr 11, 2012
johnL wrote:
11 replies and nobody mentions Mill Creek? I don't care how you choose to spend your vacation and mill creek is actually really really good. It's like they airlifted a single crag from the rrg and dumped it above moab. It's like nothing else in the area, shade and trees and a rock that's totally unique on the plateau. It's worth stopping.


I havent been to Mill Creek but spent a lot of time in the Red. So mill creek is well bolted over hanging jugs? I thought not....
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Apr 11, 2012
johnL wrote:
Didn't read that part, oops. Rather than pretend I'm having fun on a bunch of shitty navajo I'd modify the trip to be Maple to the Vrg.


Maple and the VRG are really no where near the moab to st george route.... Were you high when you wrote these comments? They are pretty useless.
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Apr 11, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
yea if overhanging RRG jug hauls is what you're after then definitely go "out of your way" to get to maple. even 1 day of climbing there will be worth it. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
592 points
Apr 12, 2012
Top of Montezuma's Tower
On a related note, I've always wanted to make a calendar of people bouldering in front of world class climbs. Tom Grummon
From Golden, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2009
33 points


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