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Sport climbing near Moab?
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By Lurking Queer
Apr 10, 2012
The Crew

My partner and I are looking to clip bolts on our way from Moab to Zion later this month. I'm familiar with Mill Creek but am looking for the next choice spot. Leading 5.11+ish right now...


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Apr 10, 2012
RJN

Check out wall street. There's a couple of bolted routes there not far from town. But pardon my French, but why the eff would you drive to the desert to clip bolts? Seems like a waste of life to me? Especially if your on the way to Zion I'm sure you've got gear? Unless your screen name holds true??


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By Bob Dobalina
Apr 10, 2012

Excuse me but it sounded like you said "Moab", "Zion", and "clipping bolts" in the same sentence!


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 10, 2012
meow

If you are going to Zion, just wait till you get there and go climb some sport routes in St. George.


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Apr 10, 2012
Bucky

Bob Dobalina wrote:
Excuse me but it sounded like you said "Moab", "Zion", and "clipping bolts" in the same sentence!


Not trying to jack the thread, but I'm pretty sure that you (Mista Dobalina) can't be trusted....need proof? Just ask the Funkiest Homosapien:



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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 11, 2012
Andrew Gram

There are some bolted sport routes that look really good right by the Lightbulb in the Buckhorn Wash. I have no information about them other than they climb through some really cool huecoed rock and are probably in the 5.11ish range.


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By slim
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

also a few routes up kane creek, just before ice cream parlor. can't remember much about them other than some nice huecos. i think they might be beyer routes (which i kind of find odd for some reason). they should be shady in th morning to afternoon or so. you could warm up on them, then maybe run up to ice cream and do 'possessed' real quick.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Apr 11, 2012
Colonel Mustard

I fully expected the phrase "masturbating in a whorehouse" to pop up, but it never did. I put you in a box, internet climbing denizens, and you proved me wrong. Bravo. And a Del reference to boot. I think my brain is about to herniate with ecstasy while I'm pissin' on your steps.


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By slim
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

it took pretty much everything i had to not type that phrase. if it were a question about bouldering at the gunks, i probably wouldn't have succeeded.

maybe the correct desert term would be 'flogging the pony in the parking lot of the mustang ranch'?


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Apr 11, 2012
Colonel Mustard

You are a stronger man than I am, Slim.

Unfortunately, I live near the Mustang Ranch. As a teen I rode a bus from Reno to Sacramento with my seatmate (seatmate only, folks!) a Mustang Ranch employee ("sex worker", we colloquially call them in NV, a whoremongoring slut of a state). She had a lot of enlightening things to say about whoring. Also, some funny shit about John Wayne Bobbit, who was working as a bouncer at the brothels at that time. I grew up a lot that day.


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By $t0& 960
From Colorado
Apr 11, 2012
s

Sport climbing in Moab is like drinking coffee in a crack house


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By ddriver
From SLC
Apr 11, 2012

You could check out this place: www.mountainproject.com/v/jungle-on-the-aquarius-plateau/106>>>

Haven't been myself but it looks like fun.

You know there's a bit of sport around St. George as well.

Henries? Cedar City?


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Apr 11, 2012

Lurking Queer wrote:
I'm familiar with Mill Creek but am looking for the next choice spot.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 11, 2012

johnL wrote:
11 replies and nobody mentions Mill Creek? I don't care how you choose to spend your vacation and mill creek is actually really really good. It's like they airlifted a single crag from the rrg and dumped it above moab. It's like nothing else in the area, shade and trees and a rock that's totally unique on the plateau. It's worth stopping.


I havent been to Mill Creek but spent a lot of time in the Red. So mill creek is well bolted over hanging jugs? I thought not....


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 11, 2012

johnL wrote:
Didn't read that part, oops. Rather than pretend I'm having fun on a bunch of shitty navajo I'd modify the trip to be Maple to the Vrg.


Maple and the VRG are really no where near the moab to st george route.... Were you high when you wrote these comments? They are pretty useless.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 11, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

yea if overhanging RRG jug hauls is what you're after then definitely go "out of your way" to get to maple. even 1 day of climbing there will be worth it.


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By Tom Grummon
From Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2012
Top of Montezuma's Tower

On a related note, I've always wanted to make a calendar of people bouldering in front of world class climbs.


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