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 ADVANCED
The Gallery
Routes Sorted
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A Day in the Life 
Buck's Muscle World 
Gelatin Pooch 
Gift, The 
Glitch, The 
Gridlock 
Gridlock Direct 
Minstrel in the Gallery 
Nothing Shocking 
Pump First, Pay Later 
Range of Motion 
Running Amuck 
Sissy Traverse 
Social Disorder 
Sport Climbing is Neither 
Trad Climbing is Both 
Where the Down Boys Go 
Yaak Crack 

Sport Climbing is Neither 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, 1991
Page Views: 2,623
Submitted By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Gallery

Description 

This is the shortest and farthest left route at the Gallery that looks easy. It's not even overhanging!

One strategy is to start with this route and keep moving right, see how far you can get! I didn't get too far ...


Protection 

Three bolts to anchor



Photos of Sport Climbing is Neither Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole Hansche warming up...
Nicole Hansche warming up...
Carrie on TR
Carrie on TR
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2004

Although I say this route can be toproped, there is no way to scramble up to the final anchor (that I know of). It would be possible to reach the final anchors to the routes to the right after leading this route, although you might as well just lead them.

By Jim McGuire
Jun 23, 2004

A nice climb with an even nicer name. If the rightward moving strategy does not work out well here then go to the Panty Wall and start on Scanty Panty and move left.

By Josh Cameron
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

If not for the climbing, then you should do this climb for the name. But the climbing is fun.

By Erin Selvaggio
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Nov 26, 2012

Good climb for beginners, gives them a little bit of everything. Starting left of the first bolt and moving right and up rather than directly below adds a few moves to an otherwise very short route. The slab from the last bolt to the anchor was a bit of a surprise but added a nice heart pump to the lead (unless you LOVE slab climbing).

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

On 12/5/13, the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route with 1/2" x 4.5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with quicklinks for rappel.