Spooky 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Smith & Laeger - August, 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: This summit shot, taken atop Spooky, shows the app...
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Description Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.
P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on.
P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit.
Protection Light rack. One or two large pieces for the OW.
Sorcerer, Magician and the Charlatan.
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view of first pitch
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second pitch
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Nearing the top.
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The two corners of Spooky. The route then moves u...
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Most of Spooky (5.9)
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006
| The first pitch that I remember is a sustained 5.8+ lieback/dihedral--and the best climbing on the route. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006
| For those uninitiated to the Needles, a great way to ease into the intense exposure of the area is to top-rope Spooky from the bolted anchor near the top of the formation. See the summit shot above for the approximate location. This requires a 60 meter rope.
Rappelling in from the top is also an expedient way to access the start. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 21, 2008
| You can do the whole climb in one pitch.
It was fun, but seems a bit overrated? A climbing mag write up? There are numerous better routes at the Needles. This is a fun one to top out after doing something on the Sorcerer. |
By slim
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.9
| i feel kind of dirty only giving this route 3 stars. it would be 5 stars out of 4 at pretty much any crag on the planet, but unfortunately this poor route is surrounded by some of the best cracks your hands will ever caress.
a 4 camalot is pretty sufficient for the OW, although bigger cams could easily be used as well. the top is really, really fun. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 21, 2012
| A #5 C4 will make you feel warm and cozy at the OW crux. I used this with a #4 and felt great and you can too. Very fun climbing. |
By Wylie
From: Hell, MI
Oct 8, 2012
| One of the best 5.9's I've done! You get a little of everything on it. |
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