Spooky Tooth  WI4+

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Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade II Consensus:  WI4+ [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Douglas Lossner on Jan 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Lynda Christensen and Matt Cova at the base of Spo...

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Description 

This is a beautiful, south-facing pillar that is approximatly 60 feet of vertical ice to 40 feet of blob to a large tree for an anchor. It gets lot of sun, so conditions could change rapidy. This climb could easily be WI5 in during its initial forming up stage when weather is very cold and the ice is chandaliered. After a day of warm and sun, the ice is plastic and super fun.

Location 

About sixteen miles into Unaweep is the pullout to access Sunday Wall. If you are looking due west towards Sunday Wall, Spooky Tooth can be seen at about 10 o'clock towards the top of the ridge. Even if a trail is found (if there is snow), the hike in is a bushwack, deadfall, boulder, & trailblaze. Well worth the effort if its in.

Protection 

22 cm screws and V-threads. 12 inch tree for belay and rappel. 70 meter rope for rap.

Photos of Spooky Tooth Slideshow

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Matt Cova, Grand Junction, our Designated Trailbla...	Beautiful plastic lead. Screws "OK", 22s are defin...	Lynda Chritensen, Montrose, "This is some steep ic...
HAPPY CLIMBER.	Matt Cova and Lynda Christensen at the belay/rappe...

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By YDPL8S From: Santa Monica, Ca. Jan 15, 2011

One of my favorite groups of the late '60s early '70s. Never had acclaimed success, but they played the sh*t out of them on underground radio. Spooky Tooth. Submitted By: YDPL8S on Jan 15, 2011