|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Kamps & Laeger - July, 1978|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Comments on Spook Book||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 22, 2006
|Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together with a 60m rope. Have your head on straight for this one and bring plenty of wires and RPs.|
By david goldstein
Jun 25, 2006
|This climb struck me as fairly graded although getting to the bolt on P1 was harrowing. The book proper reminded me a lot of Devils Tower.|
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 18, 2007
|A great route with a very committing move to the bolt on the first pitch. The second bolt was added by another party. The new bolt protects a tricky move to the right. You are also a long way out and will probably get banged up if you blow the last moves getting to the first belay ledge. This was for our party the spook part of the book. It would be really exciting if 10+ was your limit.|
By Rob Dillon
Aug 14, 2007
|10+ on A3 gear should keep your attention where it belongs. This was pretty close to my limit at the time and it sure had mine. Don't skimp on the brass.|
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
May 23, 2011
|Hi Eric - FYI Bob Kamp's contemporaneous notes from the FA have him placing the first bolt and Herb Laeger the second. On the first day,7-9-78, they ran out of time and traversed to Inner Sanctum to escape from about P3. Came back 7-15-78 and did the whole line.|
From: Mojave, CA
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
P1 - The move to the first bolt is only ~5.9. It is mentally challenging, but not hard. The 5.10a section is after clipping the first bolt. Bolts are modern.
P2 - The definitive crux. Bring RP's or expect to run it out. Recommend linking Pitches 2 & 3.
We brought doubles to #2 Camalot with triples in the finger sizes, offset alloy and brass nuts, regular set of nuts.
This route lives up to its classic status. It is very safe (with the right gear), other than the move to the first bolt on P1. Get on it!