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On the South Side of the Whale's Tail a slippery ramp rises from the right to left on a dark band of rock [from the] streamside trail. This route is Spoof. Climb the first 30 or so feet past fixed pins with a few possible tricam or SLCD placements. This section is the 5.8+ crux of Spoof. After a few more moves, a pocketed and chunky crack/dihedral/roof appears overhead. Climb up and slightly to the right on pockets, pinches, underclings, and jams.
Normally, I'd say to continue to a good belay stance, but there isn't one - so just continue until...[there] are some bolted anchors for nearby routes if you want to do some simple rigging, ro you can continue up to the top and scramble off.
I found the climbing to be reasonably fun and perhaps not as bad as described on-line for the route "Spoof," but this is certainly no destination. It's a route to be enjoyed by those who are completists in Eldo and don't mind a bit of obscure climbing.
At least it's not a long walk.
There are a few fixed pins low on the route Spoof, where Spoof Roof starts. These are not great, and the climbing nearby is easy, but I advise clipping them. Not much else is available, and the rock is slick. Use longer slings to avoid drag and place gear whenever possible. As you turn the roof, the "[chunkiness]" of the rock makes it somewhat difficult to trust the gear. The gear in and of itself is not bad, but the general slipperiness of the rock makes a fall from anywhere possible, whereas gear is not necessarily so readily available.
Foops? Oops, I mean Spoof Roof.
By Mark Roth
Jun 27, 2009
I thought the crux was the ramp. It was super greasy. Nothing very positive. You can get some cams in the pin scars. The gear at the roof was pretty bad. You can get a number 3 deep in a muddy hole behind the loose flake. After cruising over the overhang, you can place a directional for your 2nd and step down right to a bolt anchor....
4 days ago
Diana Hunter and I free climbed the Spoof Roof sometime in the early '70s. Diana led the roof on minimal gear. When I followed the pitch, I pulled off a block, which hit me directly in the forehead; briefly knocking me out and leaving me spinning on the end of the rope. Diana held on tight from a very shaky belay above the roof, and I subsequently recovered and managed to finish the pitch.